DROPS Soft Tweed
DROPS Soft Tweed
50% Wool, 25% Alpaca, 25% Viscose
from 5.80 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Bee Season Jumper

Knitted sweater for children in DROPS Soft Tweed. The piece is worked top down, with raglan and embroidered flowers and a bee. Sizes 3-14 years.

DROPS Children 40-1
DROPS Design: Pattern no st-001-bn
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14 years
Child’s height in cm:
98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152 - 158/164
Child’s height in feet:
3ft3/3ft5 - 3ft3/3ft5 – 3ft7/3ft9 - 4ft5/4ft7 - 4ft9/4ft12 - 2ft2/5ft5

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 68-72-76-80-84-88 cm = 26 3/4"-28 3/8"-29 1/2"-31 1/2"-33"-34 5/8"
Full length: 40-44-48-52-55-58 cm = 15 3/4"-17 1/4"-19"-20 1/2"-21 5/8"-22 3/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SOFT TWEED from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-250-250-300-350-400 g color 13, lemon pie

For the flowers and bee:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
50 g color 53, anthracite
50 g color 52, dark mustard
50 g color 80, rose
50 g color 19, white

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm = 24”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm = 24”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.
NEEDLE: for embroidery.

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Soft Tweed
DROPS Soft Tweed
50% Wool, 25% Alpaca, 25% Viscose
from 5.80 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 76 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 16) = 4.75.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 5th stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the 4 markers as follows (= 8 stitches increased on the round): Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.


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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with double pointed needles/circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked with double pointed needles. Two flowers and a bee are embroidered onto the front piece to finish.

NECK:
Cast on 104-104-104-112-112-112 stitches with double pointed needles/short circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and DROPS Soft Tweed. Knit 1 round, then work A.1 (13-13-13-14-14-14 repeats of 8 stitches) on the round. On the last round in A.1, increase 0-3-3-0-3-3 stitches evenly spaced = 78-81-81-84-87-87 stitches. Now work A.2. When the piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2" insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round. The piece is now measured from here!

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6. Knit 1 round where you increase 14-15-15-16-17-17 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 92-96-96-100-104-104 stitches. Insert 4 new markers as described below, without working the stitches and each marker inserted between 2 stitches. These markers are used when increasing to raglan.
Beginning of round = mid-back. Count 17-18-18-19-20-20 stitches (between back piece and sleeve), insert marker 1 here.
Count 12 stitches and insert marker 2 (= sleeve).
Count 34-36-36-38-40-40 stitches and insert marker 3 (= front piece).
Count 12 stitches and insert marker 4 (= sleeve). There are 17-18-18-19-20-20 stitches left on the round (= half back piece). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Work stockinette stitch in the round, AT THE SAME TIME, on the first round begin to increase for RAGLAN – read description above. Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 16-17-19-19-20-22 times = 220-232-248-252-264-280 stitches.

Continue working until the piece measures 14-15-16-17-18-19 cm = 5 1/2"-6"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7"-7 1/2" from the marker on the neck. Now divide the yoke for the body and sleeves; work as far as marker 1 (= half back piece), place the next 44-46-50-50-52-56 stitches on a thread for the sleeve (without working them), cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches under the sleeve, work the next 66-70-74-76-80-84 stitches (= front piece), place the next 44-46-50-50-52-56 stitches on a thread for the sleeve (without working them), cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches under the sleeve, work to the end of the round.
The body and sleeves are finished separately. Remove the markers.
THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 144-152-160-168-176-184 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch until the piece measures 19-22-25-28-30-32 cm = 7 1/2"-8 3/4"-9 3/4"-11"-11 3/4"-12 1/2" from the division. There is approx. 4 cm = 1 1/2" left to finished length; try the sweater on and work to desired length. To avoid the following rib being tight, knit 1 round where you increase 27-28-32-33-37-35 stitches evenly spaced = 171-180-192-201-213-219 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and work A.2 for 4 cm = 1 1/2". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP.
The sweater measures approx. 40-44-48-52-55-58 cm = 15 3/4"-17 1/4"-19"-20 1/2"-21 5/8"-22 3/4" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 44-46-50-50-52-56 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 50-52-56-58-60-64 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Start at the marker thread and work stockinette stitch in the round. When the sleeve measures 3 cm = 1 1/8", decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-5-5-6-7-6½ cm = 1 1/2"-2"-2"-2 3/8"-2 3/4"-2 1/2" a total of 4-4-5-5-5-6 times = 42-44-46-48-50-52 stitches. Continue working without further decreases until the sleeve measures 21-25-29-33-37-41 cm = 8 1/4"-9 3/4"-11 3/8"-13"-14 1/2"-16 1/8" from the division. There is approx. 4 cm = 1 1/2" left to finished length; try the sweater on and work to desired length. Knit 1 round where you increase 9-10-8-9-10-8 stitches evenly spaced = 51-54-54-57-60-60 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 MM = US 2.5. Work A.2 for 4 cm = 1 1/2". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING-OFF TIP. The sleeve measures approx. 25-29-33-37-41-45 cm = 9 3/4"-11 3/8"-13"-14 1/2"-16 1/8"-17 3/4" from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

FLOWERS AND BEE:
1 bee and 2 flowers are embroidered onto the front piece – see photo.
The bee is embroidered with a single strand, flat stitch and in stripes; 2 wings are worked on top with chain stitch.
2 different flowers are embroidered.

BEE – BODY WITH ANTHRACITE:
Start with 1 strand of anthracite - see diagram C and diagram explanations. Start 4-5 cm = 1 1/2"-2" below the neck and 8-10 cm = 3 1/8"-4" from the left raglan-line on the front piece. Embroider 2 flat stitches diagonally up to the right and close together, each stitch 0,5 cm = 1/8” long. Move 0.5 cm = 1/8” diagonally up to the left, and work 4 flat stitches close together parallel to the first 2 stitches and each 1 cm = 3/8" long (= middle of bee), move another 0.5 cm = 1/8” and embroider 2 flat stitches close together parallel to the middle stitches, each 0.5 cm = 1/8” long. Now embroider legs under the 4 middle stitches, working 2 flat stitches, each 0.5 cm = 1/8” long.

BEE – BODY WITH DARK MUSTARD:
Change to 1 strand of dark mustard. Embroider flat stitches between the middle and the front of the bee - 4 flat stitches, the same length as the anthracite stitches they are close to. Then do the same between the middle and the back of the bee.

BEE - WINGS:
Use 1 strand of white; the wings consist of 2 chain stitches, both starting from the same hole.
Work as follows:
STITCH 1: Work 1 chain stitch of 1-1.5 cm = 3/8"-1/2" in length, pointing slightly backwards - see diagram B and diagram explanations.
STITCH 2: Work 1 chain stitch of 1-1.5 cm = 3/8"-1/2” in length, pointing slightly forwards.

FLOWER-1 (7 petals):
Start by working a back-stitch knot with the color rose - see diagram A and diagram explanations – the knot is worked to approx. 1 cm = 3/8" in diameter and 3 cm = 1 1/8" from the bee, diagonally down to the right.
This is the middle of the flower.
Work chain stitches around the knot with white - see diagram B and diagram explanations; work 7 stitches around the knot, each 1.5 cm = 1/2” long. Cut and fasten the strands.

FLOWER-2 (5 petals):
Start by working a back-stitch knot with the color rose - see diagram A and diagram explanations – the knot is worked to approx. 1 cm = 3/8" in diameter and 5 cm = 2" from the middle of flower-1, diagonally down to the left.
This is the middle of the flower.
Work chain stitches around the knot with white - see diagram B and diagram explanations; work 5 stitches around the knot, each 1 cm = 3/8" long. Cut and fasten the strands.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit twisted
symbols = purl
symbols = knit
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
symbols = knit 6 together
symbols = Back-stitch knot, Pictures 1-4
PICTURE 1: Insert the needle from the wrong side and through to the right side where you wish the knot to be.
PICTURE 2: Thread the needle back to the wrong side 0.5 – 1.5 stitches from where it originally came up.
PICTURE 3: Sew up and down through the same holes as many times as is necessary to give the knot-size you wish.
PICTURE 4: Back-stitch knot. Fasten the strand on the wrong side.
symbols = Chain stitch, Pictures 1-6.
PICTURE 1: Insert the needle from the wrong side and through to the right side where you would like the chain stitch to begin.
PICTURE 2: Insert the needle down through the hole the strand came up through, then to the right side again approx. 2 cm = 3/4" further on – allow the strand to lie under the point of the needle.
PICTURE 3: Pull the needle through the piece, forming a loop with the strand coming up in the middle of the loop.
PICTURE 4: Insert the needle into the piece approx. 0.5 stitches in front of the loop and pull it through.
PICTURE 5: The chain stitch is finished; if you want more stitches, start from Picture 1 again. Fasten the thread on the wrong side.
PICTURE 6: This picture shows vertical, horizontal and diagonal chain stitches, some starting from the same hole, some starting from separate holes.
symbols = Flat stitch, Pictures 1-4
PICTURE 1: Insert the needle from the wrong side to the right side, where you wish the stitch to start.
PICTURE 2: Skip 0.5 - 1 cm = 1/8”-3/8" and thread the needle down and up again to where you want the next flat stitch to start, pull the strand through.
PICTURE 3: Skip 0.5 - 1 cm = 1/8”-3/8” and thread the needle down and up again to where you want the next flat stitch to start, pull the strand through.
Continue like this until you have enough stitches. Fasten the strand on the wrong side.
PICTURE 4: Flat stitches of different lengths and different directions.
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (14)

country flag AM wrote:

How do you knit 6 stitches together?

17.02.2024 - 08:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dear AM, you can use the following video, but you need to knit together 6 instead of 5 as in the video: https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?id=685&lang=en. Knit 6 tog as follows: K 6, pass them back on left needle, pass the next to last st over the last so that this st is around the last st, repeat until all 5 sts have been passed over (= 5 sts dec), pass the last st worked back on right needle. Happy knitting!

18.02.2024 - 21:54

country flag Cristiana wrote:

In A1 si legge di lavorare 6 maglie assieme. Non riesco a mettere 6 maglie assieme e lavorarle, come posso fare? Grazie

16.02.2024 - 21:14

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Cristiana, può lavorare 6 maglie diritto e poi accavallare la penultima maglia sull'ultima e così via fino a quando sono state diminuite tutte le maglie. Buon lavoro!

17.02.2024 - 13:24

country flag Valentina wrote:

Hallo, ich kann nicht sehen Diagramm A1 und A2. Wie kann man es finden?

14.12.2023 - 18:44

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Valentina, Diagramme A.1 und A.2 finden Sie bei der Maßskizze, unter den Ärmel. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

15.12.2023 - 09:05

country flag Margret wrote:

Können Sie mir bitte erklären wie ich 6Maschen zusammenstricken kann, ohne dabei die Nadeln zu verbiegen

17.11.2022 - 16:44

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Margret, dieses Video zeigt, wie man 5 Maschen zusammenstrickt, so stricken Sie aber mit 6 Maschen anstatt 5. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.11.2022 - 17:12

country flag Åshild wrote:

Hei! Jeg sliter med starten. Hvordan strikker jeg A1?

15.04.2022 - 20:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Åshild, A.1 gir deg toppen av halsen som ruller litt utover. Første omgangen er 1 rett, strikke 6 masker rett sammen, 1 rett og dette gjentar du til slutten av omgangen. Neste omgang har du 1 kast, 1 rett, 1 kast, 1 rett, 1 kast, 1 rett og dette gjentas rundt. 3 omgang er strikke rett. Håper dette hjelper og god fornøyelse!

19.04.2022 - 10:29

country flag Helen wrote:

I have the pattern for your Bee Season Jumper and am confused as to A.1 directions. How do I knit into 6 stitches at once? Can you give me written instructions for A.1 rather than as a diagram?

31.01.2022 - 23:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Helen, the first row in A.1 is worked over 8 sts as follows: K1, K6 together, K1 (=3 sts remain); on next row work: (YO, K1, YO, K1, YO, K1), there are now 6 sts. Knit all sts on 3rd round, knitting the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Happy knitting!

01.02.2022 - 09:20

country flag Sharon wrote:

Hi, Could you please explain A.1 and A.2 in text, as in French above. Many thanks.

10.01.2022 - 22:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Sharon, A.1: Row 1 - K1, knit 6 together, K1, repeat. Row 2 - 1 yarn over, K1, 1 yarn over, K1, 1 yarn over, K1, repeat. Row 3 - Knit. A.2: All rows - Knit 2 twisted (knit in the back loop), P1|, repeat. Happy knitting!

11.01.2022 - 07:43

country flag Sara wrote:

Buongiorno, per favore, posso chiedere la spiegazione di A1 e A2 in testo? Non riesco a capire correttamente il diagramma. Grazie mille in anticipo per l'aiuto

28.12.2021 - 15:44

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Sara, purtroppo non ci è possibile scrivere le spiegazioni dei diagrammi, ma se ha delle specifiche difficoltà possiamo aiutarla. Buon lavoro!

28.12.2021 - 16:18

country flag M Laure wrote:

Bonjour Je ne comprends pas le diagrame A1. SVP, pourriez vous me l'expliquer en texte. Merci beaucoup.

11.12.2021 - 09:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour M Laure, le diagramme A.1 se tricote sur 8 mailles ainsi: 1er tour: *1 m end, 6 m ens à l'end, 1 m end*, répétez de *-* (il reste 3 m dans chaque A.1). Au tour suivant, tricotez ainsi: *1 jeté, 1 m end, 1 jeté, 1 m end, 1 jeté, 1 m end*, répétez de *-* (= vous avez maintenant (6 m dans chaque A.1). Au 3ème tour, tricotez toutes les mailles à l'endroit. Bon tricot!

13.12.2021 - 08:55

country flag Tombeur wrote:

On fait le col sur 112 mailles puis on tricot A1 puis on augmente de 3 mailles et on se retrouve avec 87 mailles on tricote A2 et a l'empiècement on augmente de 16 m on a 100m , on perd autant de maille avec le dessin A1

04.10.2021 - 13:03

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Tombeur, A.1 se tricote sur 8 mailles soit 14 x 8 = 112 mailles. Quand A.1 est terminé, il reste 6 mailles x 14 = 84 mailles, on augmente 16 mailles après A.2 = 100 mailles. Est-ce que ceci peut vous aider?

05.10.2021 - 06:53