Droplet Blanket
Like raindrops tracing a path down a window or honey dripping from the comb, the surface pattern of Ksenia Naidyon’s Droplet Blanket carves a beautiful path through nature.
Ksenia designed this pattern with a Japanese wrapped stitch, which is easy to execute and exciting to learn. These stitches create the eponymous “droplets,” little strings of beads that pop up along ribbed columns… Gorgeous!
When designing, Ksenia wanted to make sure the pattern repeats were “intuitive and easy to memorize” but that the project as a whole had “enough variation to keep the knitter entertained.” You found the perfect balance, Ksenia, and this is a wonderful knit! We’ve included both written and charted instructions for the design, so each knitter can pick their favorite and dive in!
Knit holding two strands of our beautiful Santolina, the fabric is soft and drapey with a crisp stitch definition that shows off the details of this design wonderfully. A mix of 70% organically grown cotton, 20% rayon from bamboo, and 10% hemp, cotton is at Santolina’s heart, durable but super soft, while hemp lends a hearty, slightly rustic character. As smooth and shiny as silk, the bamboo adds a lustrous finish. All together, they knit into a truly spectacular (machine washable!) blanket.
Our Golden Pollen makes a glorious Droplet Blanket, but there are more than twenty other colors of Santolina to choose from, so if you prefer raindrops to honey, you’ll find the color for you!
Designed for Purl Soho by Ksenia Naidyon, the talented designer behind Life Is Cozy, where she shares patterns for her beautiful hand knits, instructions for must-know stitch patterns, and reviews on needles, books, and notions… Everything we knitters love!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoDropletBlanket, and #PurlSohoSantolina. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 7 (12) skeins of Purl Soho’s Santolina, 70% organically grown cotton, 20% rayon from bamboo, and 10% hemp. Each skein is 328 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 2000 (3640) total yards required. We used the color Golden Pollen.
- US 6 (4 mm), 40- or 47-inch circular needles
GAUGE
20 stitches and 24 rows = 4 inches in 3 x 1 rib (see Notes) with yarn doubled
SIZES
Crib (Throw)
Finished Dimensions: Approximately 30 (41) inches wide x 44 (58) inches long
Sample: We knit the Throw size.
NOTES
YARN DOUBLED
Throughout this pattern, you will pull two strands together. The easiest way to do this is to wind two skeins into separate balls, or wind one skein into a center-pull ball and pull one strand from the inside and one from the outside.
3 X 1 RIB (FOR GAUGE SWATCH)
Worked over a multiple of 4 stitches plus 1.
Row 1 (right side): *P1, k3, repeat from * to last 1 stitch, p1.
Row 2 (wrong side): *K1, p3, repeat from * to last 1 stitch, k1.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for stitch pattern.
STITCH MULTIPLE
Worked over a multiple of 8 plus 7 stitches.
PASS, KNIT, MAKE 1 BACKWARDS LOOP, KNIT (PKMK)
Pass the third stitch on left needle over first two stitches and off needle, k1, make 1 backwards loop, k1.
PATTERN
Cast on 151 (207) stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): K2, *p3, k1, repeat from * to last 1 stitch, p1.
Now follow either the Written or Chart Instructions, both below.
DROPLET PATTERN: WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 knitwise with yarn in back (wyib), *p1, PKMK (see Notes), p1, k3, repeat from * to last 6 stitches, p1, PKMK, p1, k1.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front (wyif), *k1, p3, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k1, p1.
Row 3: Slip 1 knitwise wyib, *p1, k3, p1, PKMK, repeat from * to last 6 stitches, p1, k3, p1, k1.
Row 4: Slip 1 purlwise wyif, *k1, p3, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k1, p1.
Rows 5–12: Repeat Rows 1–4 two more times.
Rows 13 and 14: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 one time.
Row 15: Slip 1 knitwise wyib, *p1, k3, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p1, k1.
Row 16: Slip 1 purlwise wyif, *k1, p3, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k1, p1.
Rows 17–24: Repeat Rows 15 and 16 four more times.
Rows 25 and 26: Repeat Rows 3 and 4.
Rows 27–34: Repeat Rows 1–4 two times.
Rows 35–44: Repeat Rows 15 and 16 five times.
Work Rows 1–44 five (7) more times, until piece measures approximately 42 (56) inches from cast-on edge, then repeat Rows 1–12 one more time.
Go on to Finishing section below.
DROPLET PATTERN: CHART
NOTE: New to reading charts? Unravel the mysteries with our Reading A Chart Tutorial!
Starting in the bottom right corner of the Chart below, work right-side (odd number) rows from right to left and wrong-side (even number) rows from left to right.
Work Rows 1–44 six (8) times until piece measures approximately 42 (56) inches from cast-on edge, then repeat Rows 1–12 one more time.
KEY
CHART
NOTE: Want to see it bigger? Download this chart (and key) as a PDF!
Go on to Finishing section below.
FINISHING
Next Row (right side): Slip 1 knitwise with yarn in back, *p1, PKMK, p1, k3, repeat from * to last 6 stitches, p1, PKMK, p1, k1.
With wrong side facing you, bind off in pattern, knitting the knits and purling the purls.
Weave in ends and gently wet block your finished blanket.
I think this would be lovely made into a scarf. Would the pattern definition work if done with one strand of yarn, instead of the 2 the blanket calls for, so that it wouldn’t be as heavy and might have a nice drape?
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for reaching out to us with your question!
You can absolutely modify this pattern to be knit into a scarf using one strand of yarn! This stitch pattern would be beautiful knit up in Santolina held single, and definitely create a finished fabric with a lot of drape.
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Carly
Thank you for this lovely blanket .There are so many beautiful patterns that it’s difficult to choose one for this fall . Maybe 2 would be fine to knit ?
You are very welcome, and we are happy to hear you are feeling inspired by our blanket patterns! We hope you enjoy knitting whichever one(s) you choose!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi,
I looove your pattern. So beautiful, but I simply can not find out how to PKMK. Do you have a tutorial video of the method?
Thank you in advance.
Best,
Liv Aurora
Hi Liv Aurora,
Thanks for reaching out! We do not yet have a tutorial on the PKMK, but I’ve passed along your interest in one to our design team.
In the meantime, you can view a step-by-step description of how to do this stitch in the NOTES section of this pattern. If you want a video tutorial, I’d recommend searching “PKOK” in your favorite search engine, and lots of videos will come up! The PKOK is very similar to the PKMK, but it uses a yarn over instead of a make 1 backwards loop.
I hope this helps you get started on the pattern, and thanks again for sharing your interest in a tutorial on the PKMK stitch!
All the best,
Lili
I’m confused. Does this project require 7 or 12 Skeins of Santolina?
Hi Tina!
Thank you for your question. This pattern requires 7 skeins for the Crib size and 12 skeins for the Throw size.
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Do you have a link or demonstration for this PKMK?
Hi Tirzah,
Thanks for reaching out! We do not yet have a tutorial on the PKMK, but I’ve passed along your interest in one to our design team.
In the meantime, you can view a step-by-step description of how to do this stitch in the NOTES section of this pattern. If you want a video tutorial, I’d recommend searching “PKOK” in your favorite search engine, and lots of videos will come up! The PKOK is very similar to the PKMK, but it uses a yarn over instead of a make 1 backwards loop.
I hope this helps you get started on the pattern, and thanks again for sharing your interest in a tutorial on the PKMK stitch!
All the best,
Lili
Also, for the crib blanket, I think that it said that you combine two strands. Does that mean that you need 14 skeins for the crib blanket?
Hello!
Thank you for your question! For the crib size blanket, you will only need 7 skeins of yarn even though you will be holding two strands together still. We recommend either pulling from the inside and outside of the ball, or pulling from two skeins at a time.
I hope this helps, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi!
Maybe I understood wrong but on the row 1, you write :
“Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 knitwise with yarn in back (wyib), *p1, PKMK”
But we do not have the third stich yet as we only slip1 and purl 1 which means 2 stiches. Can you tell what I don’t undestand?Thank you very much in advance for your help.
Virginie from Paris (France)
oups! do not take in account my comment : I read more carefully and I understood what you have wrote 😉
Hi Virginie!
Thank you for your question! We wanted to answer it in case other knitters had this question as well. When working the PKMK stitch, the third stitch will come from your left needle, and it will be slipped over the two stitches before it on your left needle as well.
I hope this helps, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
Is it important to the pattern that 2 strands of yarn be used, or is that more a texture thing?
Hi Andrea!
Thank you for your question! It is important to hold two strands together while knitting this blanket so that you can reach gauge. Otherwise, your blanket would be too loosely knit and not as warm or as big as it would be with two strands held together.
I hope this helps clarify things, and please feel free to let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Margaret
Is there a tutorial for the pkmk stitch?
Hello,
Thanks for reaching out! We do not yet have a tutorial on the PKMK, but I’ve passed along your interest in one to our design team.
In the meantime, you can view a step-by-step description of how to do this stitch in the NOTES section of this pattern. If you want a video tutorial, I’d recommend searching “PKOK” in your favorite search engine, and lots of videos will come up! The PKOK is very similar to the PKMK, but it uses a yarn over instead of a make 1 backwards loop.
I hope this helps you get started on the pattern, and thanks again for sharing your interest in a tutorial on the PKMK stitch!
All the best,
Lili
I’m interested in knitting this pattern but am not a huge fan of cotton. Linen Quill is my absolute favorite yarn and I would love to use it again. Since the yarn is held double, would the fingering weight be best or could I use the worsted weight linen quill (not held double)? I do have issues sometimes when I have to tink out mistakes with yarns held double. It just seems to make it a bit more fussy. What are your thoughts? Thanks in advance!!
Hi Joy,
Thanks for reaching out. You can definitely use Linen Quill Worsted for this blanket! Since that yarn will likely have a slightly larger gauge than Santolina or Linen Quill doubled, all you’ll need to do is adjust the number of stitches you cast on.
To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern (if this is daunting, we have a wonderful tutorial called All About Gauge). Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width that you would like and cast on the nearest multiple of 8 + 7 stitches. Then you can follow the pattern as written!
All the best,
Lili
I just realised the yarn I was thinking of is actually flax down not linen quill and it has been discontinued. I think what I like about flax down is not only the fiber content but that it is single ply. Is there a yarn that would be more like flax down or is linen quill worsted my best choice? And how many skeins would Ineed to knit the throw. Again, thanks so much!!
Hi Joy!
Thank you for letting us know! Unfortunately, yes, Flax Down has been discontinued, however I have a few options to use as substitutes. Linen Quill Worsted would be the best substitute in terms of fiber and feel, though not gauge. However, as long as you are knitting at gauge for this blanket with one strand of Linen Quill Worsted, you can definitely use it for this project! Using one strand of a worsted weight yarn, you will need 1820 yards or 11 skeins of Linen Quill Worsted to knit the throw size blanket. If you were to use one strand of Flax Down, you would need a little over 8 skeins, since each skein of Flax Down has 219 yards. However, it might be difficult to achieve gauge with Flax Down since it is a DK weight yarn. (A DK weight yarn would be too thin held alone and too thick held double for this pattern.) For future projects, we suggest Cashmere Merino Bloom for a Flax Down substitute in terms of gauge!
I hope this is helpful!
All the best,
Margaret
So sad flax down discontinued. One of my fav yarns.
Agreed. I have a couple skeins of it on hand that I’m keeping for the next perfect project. It is a beautiful yarn and feels lovely to work with.
Another beautiful PurlSoho pattern! I would love to make this with Good Wool. Will the gauge be correct on a size 6 using a single strand? And I would only need half the yardage, correct?
Hi Jodi!
Thank you for your question. Good Wool might be too thin to hold alone but too thick to be held double for this blanket as written. If you would like to still use it with this design, however, you could knit up a gauge swatch with Good Wool to see how many stitches per inch you are getting, and then calculate your cast on amount based on your desired blanket width! The yardage requirements would adjust with a different gauge as well, since the yardages listed are for the specific gauge in this pattern.
I hope this helps with your project planning!
All the best,
Margaret
Love the pattern. I have started it over fifteen times and somehow can’t manage to keep the appropriate. Umber of stitches past the fourth row. Sometimes I increase and others, decrease. I have watched the pkok videos and am wondering if how I make the backwards loop is influencing my outcome. I am frustrated but determined! Any suggestions?
Hi Maureen!
Oh no! I’m so sorry to hear about the frustration this blanket has caused! I would suggest knitting a small swatch to work these techniques over fewer stitches (15 or 23 stitches would be perfect, as they are multiples of 8+7!), so that you can have a little “case study” of the PKMK stitch dynamics. I would also recommend double checking the stitches on your right needle after a PKMK to make sure that there are only three stitches (knit 1, make 1 backwards loop, knit 1) from the PKMK before moving on. When passing the loop on your left needle over the two stitches, I suggest double checking that this stitch is fully off your needles after passing it over the two stitches. If it is still on your needle after passing, this may be what is causing your rows to have extra stitches!
I hope this helps, but please feel free to email us at customerservice@purlsoho.com if you would like some extra help!
All the best,
Margaret
I have been racking my brain (and even enlisted my math-brained husband to help!) on what I’m doing wrong – I’ve cast on 207 stitches, and done the set-up row multiple times. I just don’t understand because the set-up row pattern is a 6 stitch pattern, and then I should have one stitch leftover. 6 stitches doesn’t go into 206 stitches – it would be 204. And that’s what I’m finding. I have 3 stitches left over every time when according to this pattern I should only have one. I really love the yarn, and really want to make this blanket. Can you help? Thanks in advance.
Hi Jenn,
Thank you for reaching out with your question! I’d be happy to help you with the Droplet stitch pattern!
For the Set-Up Row of the pattern, you will start by knitting 2 stitches, then you will repeat the following *p3, k1* until you reach the last stitch, then purl 1. The repeat on this row is only the 4 stitches between the asterisks!
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Carly
Ohhhh! Thank you – was reading that completely wrong! I get it now.
Best,
Jenn
I love this pattern! Was wondering if it can be made with the pure cotton on the cone yarn. I just purchased a cone and would like to use it but prefer this pattern! What do you think? Thanks for your help!!
Hi Tracie,
Thanks for writing in! You can absolutely use Cotton Pure for this blanket. All you’d need to do is adjust the number of stitches you cast on at the beginning!
To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern (if this is daunting, we have a wonderful tutorial called All About Gauge). Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width that you would like and cast on the nearest multiple of 8 + 7. Then you can follow the pattern as written!
I’d also recommend holding only a single strand of Cotton Pure, since it won’t be possible to pull two strands from the same cone at once. I hope this helps you get started on your project!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much for this lovely pattern! I am currently knitting this beautiful blanket! It is coming out so pretty! My daughter now wants a cardigan/sweater made with this pattern; but I am not talented enough to figure out how to convert to a cardigan! 🙁
Any suggestions?
Hello!
We’re so glad to hear this pattern caught your eye. If you wanted to use this stitch pattern for a cardigan, I would suggest working the back panel of your favorite basic cardigan pattern using this stitch repeat (a multiple of 8 plus 7)! You could also add this design along the center of the sleeves and at the bottom of the cardigan hem. Unfortunately, we are working with limited resources so we are unable to make a full pattern for this cardigan, however I will be sure to mention your idea to our team, as it would be a great project!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi, i’m really enjoying this knit but i have just found that i messed up the “carry it along the edge” stitch when i joined a new ball a few rows back. Is there any way to fix this like picking up a dropped stitch without tinking? Thanks for you advice! My fingers are crossed,
Joy
Hi Joy,
Thank you for your question! If the first stitch with your new ball of yarn is the issue, you may be able to undo and rethread the stitch with a darning needle attached to the tail, therefore avoiding having to rip back your knitting. To provide more specific help with your blanket, though, please feel free to send us a photo of your work at customerservice@purlsoho.com so we can take a closer look and get you back on track!
All the best,
Margaret
What weight yarn is created by holding Santolina double? If I wanted to substitute yarn for this pattern what weight would you recommend?
Hi Natalie,
Santolina doubled would be approximately DK weight! The gauge of this pattern is 20 stitches and 24 rows = 4 inches in 3 x 1 rib with yarn doubled, so I’d say that a DK or lighter worsted weight yarn would be perfect held single.
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I’m excited to make this blanket. I was wondering if you can explain the Slip 1 knitwise with yarn in back (wyib) and slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front (wyif). All the tutorial show it when it’s in the middle of the work and this is the first stitch of the row so I’m not understanding.
Hi AV,
Thanks for reaching out, and glad to hear that you’re excited to start knitting this pattern! There are two different parameters for every slipped stitch: purlwise vs knitwise, and wyif vs wyib. Here are some short descriptions of what each entails:
Purlwise means to insert your needle into the stitch as if you were going to purl it, but instead of purling, just transfer it to the other needle.
Knitwise means to insert your needle into the stitch as if you were going to knit it, but instead of knitting, just transfer it to the other needle.
With yarn in front (wyif) means to hold your working yarn in front of the work (like you would when purling) while you slip the stitch.
With yarn in back (wyib) means to hold your working yarn in back of the work (like you would when knitting) while you slip the stitch.
So for a stitch that’s slipped knitwise wyib, you would follow both the “knitwise” instructions and the “with yarn in back (wyib)” instructions at the same time. And likewise for a stitch that’s slipped purlwise wyif, you would follow both the “purlwise” and “with yarn in front (wyif)” instructions at the same time. This will work for either a stitch that’s slipped in the middle of a row, or at the end of a row!
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Would this lovely pattern work with Knitting Wool held single?
I meant to ask about Knitting Yarn not Knitting Wool. Or would Widgeon work ? I’d like it to be warm and soft, not scratchy.
Hi Janice,
I’ve seen both of your questions and will answer them here! Knitting Yarn held single would be perfect for this pattern (better than Wigeon, which will be too thin). Both yarns are made of 100% merino wool, so they’re super soft and won’t scratch!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you Lili
If I make this in Knitting Yarn, I would need half as much yarn because I wouldn’t hold it double, correct?
Yes, precisely!
All the best,
Lili
The pattern is beautiful. I would like to make a throw ,How many stitches would that need to CO?
Hi Janet,
Thanks for reaching out. We do have a throw size for this blanket, and you would cast on 207 stitches. You can find more details on the throw size version in the SIZES section on this page!
All the best,
Lili
Ooooooo I would love to incorporate this design into a pullover. I’m thinking an all over pattern. Which pattern do you think would be best, taking into account using the yarn held double. Thankyou for your time.
Hi Susan,
I’m afraid that we do not have a pullover pattern that incorporates this stitch, but I love the idea! I’ll pass it along to our design team to let them know there’s interest in seeing something like this in the future.
All the best,
Lili
I’ve just completed the swatch. Is the finished swatch supposed to be 4”x 4″? I used 21 stitches instead of 20 so that the ribbing would work out and the width is about 4″ but the length is 3.25″ I’m not sure how to compensate for this – just keep knitting until the length is 58″? But then what about the pattern? It looks like it is a 44 row repeat and that seems like a lot. Thanks for your help.
Hi Laura,
Thanks for reaching out! When swatching, it’s best to make a large gauge swatch (larger in both length and width than 4 inches), so that you can take the measurement from the central stitches, avoiding the edge stitches where the tension is uneven. I would generally recommend making a 6×6 inch swatch, so for the Droplet Blanket I’d recommend casting on 29 stitches, which is the closest number that also works with the stitch multiple. Once you’ve knit the swatch to approximately a square, you can measure the number of stitches and rows in the central 4 inches!
All the best,
Lili
Can this pattern be altered to do in the round? I’d like to make a Lil Dumpling bag with this pattern, but don’t know how to make those reversals for the wrong side rows.
Hi Deb,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, you could work this stitch pattern in the round, but you’ll need to make a few more modifications in addition to reversing the stitches in the wrong side rows. First, I’d recommend working directly from the chart, and not the written instructions. This is because you’ll want to ignore the border stitches and only follow the stitches in the 8-stitch pattern repeat (outlined in red in the chart). Since you’re working in the round, there is no border!
Then, because you’re knitting the 8-stitch pattern repeat, you’ll need to make sure to cast on a multiple of 8 stitches. The Dumpling Bag begins with 100 stitches, so you’ll need to either decrease that to 96, or increase it to 104. (This means you’ll also need to make a few more modifications when it comes time to divide for the straps.)
In terms of reversing the stitches on the wrong side rows, all that entails is purling instead of knitting, and vice versa! Within the 8-stitch repeat, there are only knit and purl stitches, so all you need to do is work a knit stitch when you see an empty box in the chart, and a purl stitch when you see a black circle.
I hope this helps get you started!
All the best,
Lili
I made a mistake when I knitted the gauge and didn’t do it in the rib. As a result, I am now several inches into the blanket and it is much smaller than the width the throw should be. I am making it in Knitting Yarn . Can you tell me how much this yarn will grow when I wet block it? I am trying to decide if I can get away with not ripping it out or if I need to start over with larger needles.
Hi Janice,
I’m sorry to hear that your blanket is coming out small! In this case, I would recommend restarting the entire thing. The yarn won’t grow all that much through blocking, unless you purposely stretch out the blanket, but that will distort the stitch pattern. You could opt to do that, but I think you’ll be much more satisfied with your finished blanket if you begin again at the correct gauge!
All the best,
Lili
Hi. I have a question about gauge. More specifically, how much should I stretch the swatch? Should I spread it to show the purl stitch on the right side? Or not spread it which leaves the purl stitch fairly invisible? Thanks.
Mary
Hi Mary,
Thanks for reaching out! For this pattern, we did not stretch our gauge swatch at all. The purl stitch should be pretty much invisible!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! This pattern is GORGEOUS. I’m curious what the back looks like?
Hi Keri,
The back of this stitch pattern essentially looks like 1 x 3 ribbing, with some floats periodically going across the purl ribs. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I’d like to make this blanket in wool (or similar), and I’m a little lost on picking out a suitable replacement for Santolina. I’m wondering if any of the following could work?
1) Quartz (held double)
2) Plenty (held single)
From a few other comments, it seems like Knitting Yarn will also work?
When picking out an alternative yarn, what’s the detriment to going a little thicker? Will it obscure the pattern?
Thanks so much for your help!
Hi Lee,
Thank you for writing in! If you wanted an equal-weight yarn to substitute, I would recommend going with our Quartz yarn. For something a little heavier, our Good Wool held double or Wigeon held double would be wonderful!
I hope this helps but let me know if you have any other questions!
Warmly,
Gavriella
What would be the recommended approach to weaving in the two strands of Santolina when I come to the end of two balls? Should I weave them in separately in two different directions? Would it be best to weave in across the width or along the length of the blanket? Thanks!
Hi Maria,
Thank you for writing in! I would recommend weaving them in two different directions or along two separate rows. You can find a more in-depth tutorial about weaving in ends here! I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella