Striped Half + Half Triangles Wrap
Giving a whole new meaning to doing things by halves, our Striped Half + Half Triangles Wrap takes our favorite comfort knit and doubles the fun with stripes!
This design is the same clever construction as our original Half + Half Triangles Wrap, using short rows to make two triangles that connect in a big square… But now with an engaging array of stripes to give knitters that just-one-more-row-ness that makes this project so satisfying.
Our gorgeous Linen Quill is a wonderful choice for cozy and soft. The wool in this yarn lends its springiness and strength, the alpaca its softness. The linen’s tendency to sprout out of the fiber adds a slightly rustic texture, while the way it takes dye differently than animal fibers gives the yarn a beautiful depth and fascination.
Half the joy of this project is that you get to incorporate even more colors of Linen Quill into each wrap. And with five beautiful new shades added to this already-humungous palette, the options really are boundless!
For those who like some color guidance, we’ve made six Striped Half + Half Triangles Wrap Bundles, each with six colors of Linen Quill. Terrazzo, above, spans the color wheel from pale pink to dark green and includes two of our new colors: Raw Sienna and Golden Green (on the bottom left and top middle in the picture above).
Ocean Current (below) is a calming collection of neutrals and blues and features the lovely new Bird’s Egg Blue and Reed Gray (pictured at the bottom right and top middle).
Whether you choose one of our bundles or make your own, you’re sure to enjoy this inspiring knit, because these two halves really do add up to one spectacular whole!
Striped version designed by Purl Soho designer, Gaby Bush, based on the original Half + Half Triangles Wrap by Jake Canton.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoStripedHalfAndHalfTrianglesWrap, and #PurlSohoLinenQuill. We can’t wait to see what you make!
MATERIALS
Our Striped Half + Half Triangles Wrap Bundle includes…
- 6 skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. Each skein is 439 yards/ 100 grams.
- Color A: 1 skein; approximately 430 yards required
- Color B: 1 skein; approximately 400 yards required
- Color C: 1 skein; approximately 240 yards required
- Color D: 1 skein; approximately 315 yards required
- Color E: 1 skein; approximately 355 yards required
- Color F: 1 skein; approximately 330 yards required
You will also need…
- US 3 (3.25 mm) 32-inch circular needles
- Stitch markers, including 1 removable
Choose from these Bundles (we used Terrazzo and Ocean Current for our samples) …
TERRAZZO (above, left)
- Color A: Raw Sienna
- Color B: Peony Pink
- Color C: Juniper Green
- Color D: Fresh Pickle
- Color E: Golden Green
- Color F: Wheat Flour
OCEAN CURRENT (above, right)
- Color A: Pale Oats
- Color B: Cobalt Blue
- Color C: Bird’s Egg Blue
- Color D: Blue Pansy
- Color E: Reed Gray
- Color F: True Turquoise
CROCUS PATCH
- Color A: Stonewall Gray
- Color B: Mustard Seed
- Color C: Purple Smoke
- Color D: Crocus Bud
- Color E: Turmeric Yellow
- Color F: Lavender Opal
ROCKET SHIP
- Color A: Eggshell Blue
- Color B: Red Poppy
- Color C: Mountain Bluebird
- Color D: Sweet Potato
- Color E: Wheat Flour
- Color F: Vintage Celadon
STARFISH
- Color A: Fresh Nutmeg
- Color B: Peachy Pink
- Color C: Rose Granite
- Color D: Peach Stone
- Color E: Baked Earth
- Color F: Honey Pink
CHICKADEE
- Color A: Reed Gray
- Color B: Stillwater Blue
- Color C: Pale Oats
- Color D: Kettle Black
- Color E: Wheat Flour
- Color F: Salt + Pepper
UPDATE: NOW IN SIX NEW COLORS
January 2024
With nine new colors of Linen Quill in the mix, we’ve gone all out and put together more bundles for this gorgeous knit! You can now choose from 12 inspiring bundles, all jam-packed with the incredible beauty of Linen Quill!
GAUGE
26 stitches and 52 rows or 26 garter “ridges” (one garter ridge equals 2 rows) = 4 inches in garter stitch, blocked
NOTE: We used nearly every yard of Color A. To avoid running out, be careful to match the recommended gauge and keep your yarn tails no longer than 4-6 inches. Also, choose a different color for your gauge swatch!
SIZE
Finished Dimensions: 40¾ inches wide x 40¾ inches long; approximately 57½ inches along the fold
NOTES
SHORT ROW SHAPING
WRP-T (WRAP + TURN)
On both right and wrong sides: Keeping yarn in back, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to front. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Turn work so other side is facing you. See this technique in action in our Short Row Tutorial at 0:30 seconds), except do not bring the yarn to the back before you turn.
TWISTED WRP-T (TWISTED WRAP + TURN)
On the wrong side, bring yarn between needles to front of work, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle…
… then, bring yarn to back of work, and return slipped stitch to left needle.
Bring yarn between needles to front of work, and finally, turn work so right side is facing you, and working yarn is at the back of the work.
LOCK TAIL (FOR TWISTED WRAP + TURN)
Locking the tails keeps the twisted wraps tight at the color-changes on Triangle 1. To lock a tail, bring the tail of the non-working yarn over the working yarn at the wrong side of the work, and continue knitting, repeating one more time if desired.
SLIDE WORK
Keep the same side of the work facing you and push all the stitches to the right end of the circular needles. Without turning the work, start the next row as you normally would.
KNITTING WRAPPED STITCH WITH WRAP
NOTE: Use this technique whether you’re knitting a wrap from a “wrap and turn” or a “twisted wrap and turn.” When knitting the wrap from a twisted wrap and turn, gently tug the tail on the wrong side of work to keep the stitch taut.
Use tip of right needle to pick up the wrap, inserting needle from front to back. Place the wrap onto left needle, so wrap is first stitch on needle and wrapped stitch is second, then knit the two together as you normally would.
PATTERN
TRIANGLE 1
With Color A, cast on 265 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to end of row and place a removable marker to indicate right side of work.
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to last 3 stitches, place marker (pm), k1, wrp-t (see Notes).
Row 3: Knit to end of row, slipping marker as you come to it.
Row 4: Knit to marker, remove marker, wrp-t.
Row 5: K1, pm, knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 4 and 5 fifty-six more times, ending with Row 5. [59 total garter ridges (see Notes, Gauge section)]
Repeat Row 4 one more time, ending with a twisted wrp-t (see Notes) instead of a standard wrp-t.
Cut Color A.
Next Row (right side): With Color B, k1, pm, k1, lock Color A tail (see Notes) and continue knitting to end of row.
Continuing with Color B, repeat Rows 4 and 5 seventy-four more times, ending with Row 5. [134 total garter ridges; 74 garter ridges in Color B]
Repeat Row 4 one more time, ending with a twisted wrp-t.
Cut Color B.
Next Row (right side): With Color C, k1, pm, k1, lock Color B tail (see Notes) and continue knitting to end of row.
Continuing with Color C, repeat Rows 4 and 5 until you have wrapped every stitch except the last two, ending with Row 5.
Next Row (wrong side): K1, remove marker, wrp-t.
Next Row (right side): K1. [264 total garter ridges]
Cut Color C.
TRIANGLE 2
Without turning work, slide work to other end of needles (see Notes) and join Color D.
Diagonal Row 1 (right side): With Color D, knit to end of row, knitting wrapped stitches with their wraps (see Notes). [265 stitches]
Diagonal Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
SECTION 1: TWO-COLOR
NOTE: In this section, carry non-working yarn up selvage. To do this, at the beginning of each right-side row, pick up the working yarn from behind the non-working yarn so it gets carried up the side of the work as you go.
Row 1 (right side): K1, pm, wrp-t.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip marker (sm), k1.
Join Color E.
Row 3: With Color E, knit to marker, remove marker, knit next stitch with its wrap, pm, wrp-t.
Row 4: Sm, knit to end of row.
Rows 5 and 6: With Color D, repeat Rows 3 and 4.
Repeat Rows 3–6 fifty-four more times, ending with Row 6. [111 total garter ridges]
Cut Color D.
SECTION 2: ONE-COLOR
Row 1 (right side): With Color E, knit to marker, remove marker, knit next stitch with its wrap, pm, wrp- t.
Row 2 (wrong side): Sm, knit to end of row.
Continuing with Color E, repeat Rows 1 and 2 forty-two more times, ending with Row 2. [154 total garter ridges; 43 garter ridges in Section 2]
SECTION 3
NOTE: In this section, again, carry non-working yarn up selvage.
Join Color F.
Row 1 (right side): With Color F, knit to marker, remove marker, knit next stitch with its wrap, pm, wrp- t.
Row 2 (wrong side): Sm, knit to end of row.
Rows 3 and 4: With Color E, repeat Rows 1 and 2.
Repeat Rows 1–4 twenty more times, ending with Row 4. [196 total garter ridges; 42 garter ridges in Section 3]
Cut Color E.
With Color F, repeat Rows 1 and 2 one more time. [197 total garter ridges; 43 garter ridges in Section 3]
SECTION 4
NOTE: In this section, carry non-working yarn up selvage.
Join Color D.
Row 1 (right side): With Color D, knit to marker, remove marker, knit next stitch with its wrap, pm, wrp- t.
Row 2 (wrong side): Sm, knit to end of row.
Rows 3 and 4: With Color F, repeat Rows 1 and 2.
Repeat Rows 1–4 until you have completed a wrap and turn on the second to last stitch with Color F, ending with Row 4. Two stitches remain to the left of marker.
Cut Color F.
Next Row (right side): With Color D, knit to last marker, remove marker, knit next stitch with its wrap, k1.
With wrong side facing you, bind off loosely knitwise, going up a needle size if needed to ensure a nice, elastic edge. [264 total garter ridges]
FINISHING
Weave in all ends, and wet block to finished dimensions.
How much of each color would I need to make a larger (50+ inch square) wrap?
Hi Emily!
Thank you for your question. For a 50+ inch square wrap, you would need at least 7 skeins total, so I would suggest getting an extra skein of each color so you have enough yarn to add to your wrap! To calculate how much extra yardage you need for any larger size of this wrap, you can multiply your desired width by 6, and divide it by 40.75 to determine the number of total skeins needed.
In addition, assuming you are knitting at gauge, you would need to cast on 325 stitches for a 50″ wide wrap. To determine your cast on amount for any size of this project, you can multiply your adjusted width by 36, and divide that number by 4 for your cast-on stitch count.
I hope this helps with your project planning, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
I’m only 5 feet tall and would like to make a smaller size. Can this be done with stripes? Thanks.
Hi Cindy!
Thank you for your post. If you would like to make a smaller size, you can use our original Half and Half Triangles Wrap as a reference, and repeat each striped section for fewer garter ridges and fewer repeats than listed in the Striped Half and Half Triangles pattern. The original pattern lists two sizes, with the smaller size measuring 31.75″ x 31.75″ after blocking, which may be a great fit for your wrap!
I hope this helps, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi. Thanks for the info on how to calculate the number of stitches to cast on for a larger wrap. How would knitting a larger wrap affect the number of garter ridges for each section? Thanks
Hi Jody!
Thanks for asking! Knitting a larger wrap would create more garter ridges per section, as more rows create more garter ridges. The specific number of garter ridges will be up to you and how many stitches you decide to cast on. In general, you should have one less garter ridge at the end of your first triangle than the total number of stitches you cast on. Dividing the number of stitches you cast on by 3 will help to determine approximately how many garter ridges to include in each section for the first triangle. For the second triangle, you can use the first triangle as a reference for where to begin and end the striped sections for your larger wrap, since the second triangle is built on the other side of the first triangle!
All the best,
Margaret
Can you recommend a different yarn for this project? Working with Linen Quill now and would like to try something different but with similar gauge. Many thanks!
Hi Jackie!
Thank you for your question. If you would prefer to use a different yarn, Quartz, Line Weight, Posy, and Santolina would all be good options, as they are all fingering weight yarns with many fun colors.
I hope this helps with your project planning, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
Leaning toward Quartz, assuming it would be softer than Linen Quill? Your thoughts, please?
Many thanks as always,
Jackie
Hi Jackie,
Thank you for your question! Quartz is a lovely alternative for this wrap, and we’re glad to hear it caught your eye! While Linen Quill is certainly soft (especially after blocking), Quartz contains a more plush and squishy blend of merino wool and suri alpaca that would make for an even softer wrap!
I hope this helps with your project planning!
All the best,
Margaret
Hello,
I wanted to make a washable cotton baby blanket using this pattern and purchased some Sweetgrass. I was going for a subtle striping in natural colors. Please let me know your thoughts. I am wondering if that will be too subtle and if the yarn will work.
Thank you, love the pattern, Jo
Hi Jo!
Thank you for your question. We’re so glad to hear this pattern caught your eye, and I think it would make a lovely baby blanket! Sweetgrass would create a very soft version of this pattern, and it should be easy to achieve gauge since it is also a fingering weight yarn like Linen Quill. Sweetgrass is not machine washable, however, due to the alpaca component, so that is the only thing I would keep in mind when planning your project! As for the striping, I would suggest using the colors in order from lightest to darkest (or darkest to lightest) so as to have a gradual ombre flow. If you are curious to see how these colors transition from one to the next, you can take a look at our original Sand Drift Blanket, which uses the full palette of Sweetgrass in ombre stripes!
I hope this helps with your project planning, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
I was looking at the terrazzo color way but see it is out of stock. I think it is because raw sienna isn’t available. Is there another color that you would recommend to replace it? I couldn’t tell if turmeric yellow or fresh nutmeg would go with the color way or a deeper pink?
Thank you
Hi Nina,
Thanks for reaching out. Both Raw Sienna and Golden Green are currently out of stock, but I’d be happy to recommend substitute colors for both of them! I think Turmeric Yellow would fit perfectly within the palette, and then for an additional substitute, I love your idea for going with a deeper pink as well. I’d say that Baked Earth or Bright Flamingo would both be lovely choices, depending on how bright you want the pink to be!
All the best,
Lili
Do you have a simple command to print just the necessary parts of the pattern? The number of pages in the print preview are 18, and I think i need less than half that amount.
I am waiting for the chickadee color pack, can’t wait to knit!
Hi Jan,
Thanks for reaching out. Here’s how to print out a printer-friendly version of any of our pattern pages! If you’re on your computer, you’ll find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find the “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Click on this button, and a window will pop up where you can delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print. When you hover over any image or a text block, it will be highlighted in yellow and a “trash” icon will appear. Just click on this icon to delete anything that’s not necessary to the pattern! For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. Then, just click on the “Print” button in the upper left-hand corner of the pop-up window!
All the best,
Lili
I love this pattern and the color schemes. Do you have a crocheted version of this pattern?
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for reaching out. I’m afraid that we have not designed a crochet version of this pattern though! We’re sorry about that, but I’ll let our design team know that there’s interest in seeing one!
All the best,
Lili
Hello,
This wrap seems a little daunting, so I’d like to make a swatch (like those next to the colored yarn bundles above) especially to practice the wrap & turns and carrying up the yarn, nice and neat, for the 2 color ridges. Can you tell me how many stitches I’d need to cast on? The little sample swatches that some made for the 2 color H&H wrap were very helpful. Good idea???
Thank you!
Hi Joyce,
That’s a great idea to practice beforehand! I counted the number of stitches in the photos of the swatches, and it looks like we cast on 38 or 40 stitches for those. Based on the gauge of this pattern, that would give you approximately a 6-inch square swatch, which is a great size for practice! If you’d like a different size swatch though, feel free to add or remove stitches as you see fit. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
One other question…the twisted wrap and turn happens only after
the 1st and 2nd color sections on the first triangle? So there are only 2, is this correct?
Hi Joyce,
Yes, you’re absolutely correct! You’ll only need to work a twisted wrap + turn twice in this pattern.
All the best,
Lili
Can you recommend a palette of colors in greens, blue-greens, and grays?
Hi Jen,
Thanks for your comment! I’d recommend Juniper Green, Fresh Pickle, Stonewall Gray, True Turquoise, High Tide, and Salt + Pepper as a starting point for your wrap color palette! I hope this helps! Please feel free to reach out to us at customerservice@purlsoho.com if you’d like to discuss more color options. We’re always happy to help!
All the best,
Cat
How did you sew the 2 triangles together to get the diagonal stripe in the middle? Or did I miss that in the instructions? Thanks for your help.
Hi Frances,
Thanks for reaching out. There actually is no sewing involved in this pattern at all! The triangles are created entirely with wrap + turn short rows. You’ll begin my casting on all the stitches and working in shorter and shorter short rows until you’ve created Triangle 1. Then, you’ll begin Triangle 2 by working longer and longer short rows, until you’ve formed a square. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Just reinforcing the note that color A is almost completely used up! I think part of the problem is the long-tail cast on, since you’re trying to estimate for 265 stitches! And thank you for the repeated admonishments to make a swatch or I would have run out midway – I had to go to a size 2 needle to make the gauge work.
Lili I’m having difficulty understanding what you do with the last stitch on the needle when you do a wrp-t, instructions say knit to last 3 stitches, pm, k1, wrp-t (what happens to the last stitch still on the needle?
Frances
Lili I figured it out, did a swatch in bulkier yarn so I could see the pattern/instructions more clearly, now I have a sample to also practice picking up the wrp-t stitches for the diagonal seam. thanks
Hi Frances,
Because this row is a short row, you will leave that last stitch unworked, turn your work to the other side, and then continue in the opposite direction to begin the following row! For a great demonstration of how short rows work, I’d recommend taking a look at our tutorial.
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
In the tutorial, am I correct to follow BONUS: HOW TO PICK UP A PURL WRAP ON THE KNIT SIDE, which is at minute 4:33 of the video tutorial for knitting wrapped stitch with wrap?
Hi Miki,
Thank you for your question! You would actually knit the wrapped stitch and its wrap a different way since this project is knit in garter stitch and flat; the bonus instructions are geared towards projects that feature stockinette in the round with wrap-turns. For the Striped Half + Half Triangles Wrap, you can follow these instructions instead: to knit a wrapped stitch with its wrap, first use the tip of right needle to pick up the wrap, inserting the needle from front to back. Then, place the wrap onto the left needle so the wrap is the first stitch on needle and the wrapped stitch is the second. Then you can just knit the two together! I hope this helps!
All the best,
Cat
Hi. I finished the first triangle, slid my work and knitted the diagonal but for the life of me, I can’t figure out the second triangle. I keep reading over and over but I can’t see how I’m adding stitches. Help please! Thanks
Hi Andrea,
Thanks for reaching out. I’d be happy to help explain how the second triangle works! You will start working short rows in the opposite way you worked them for Triangle 1. Instead of knitting to 1 stitch before the previously wrapped stitch and working the new wrp-t there, you will instead knit to the previously wrapped stitch, knit that stitch with its wrap, and then work the new wrp-t on the following stitch. In this way, you will essentially be increasing the number of stitches covered by each subsequent short row! That’s because you’ll always be wrapping and turning on the next stitch, which is the stitch you’re “adding” to that short row. Hope this helps clear things up!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks!!!
Hi there! Thanks so much for the pattern — the design is beautiful. I’d like to make this in more of a scarf dimension (18″ x 60″ about). I’m a total beginner and not sure how to adjust the pattern to accommodate for different dimensions — would you be able to help? Thanks so much!!!
Hi Joyce,
Thanks for reaching out! I’m afraid that this pattern would be very difficult to modify into a scarf shape. That’s because the dimensions are fixed, and no matter how many stitches you cast on, it will always form a square.
If you’d like to give the modifications a shot though, here’s how I would do it: Cast on the number of stitches you want for the length of the scarf. Then, work through the short rows, wrapping and turning not on every stitch, but every few stitches instead. This will lower the angle that the short rows create, and it’ll form a rectangle instead of a square.
I hope this helps give you an idea of how to proceed if you want to try the modifications, but I wouldn’t recommend this for a beginner knitter!
All the best,
Lili
I find it near impossible to pick up wraps no matter how I try. Can I switch to German short rows?
Hi Olga,
Thanks for reaching out. We highly recommend using wrap + turn short rows for this pattern, as we’ve found that those make the color transitions between stripes much smoother! It is possible to substitute German short rows though, you’ll just need to knit one additional stitch before making the double stitch. So if the pattern says “knit until 3 stitches remain, wrap and turn,” you’ll actually need to “knit until 2 stitches remain, make double stitch.”
Alternatively, if you want to learn more about wrap + turn short rows, I want to let you know that we have a wonderful tutorial! You can find it right here. We’d also be happy to demonstrate picking up the wraps over Zoom, so if that would be helpful for you, feel free to sign up for a 1-On-1 Project Help session here. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Very excited to try this pattern. If I were just going to use one color on the first triangle, would I just use color A and repeat rows 4 and 5 until there are 264 garter ridges and one stitch left to start triangle B?
Hi Mimi,
Thanks for reaching out, and you have exactly the right idea! You can just repeat Rows 4 and 5 with only Color A until that point, and then move onto Triangle 2. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hello, I swatched for this and for me, 26 ridges (52 rows), comes out to 3.75″ rather than 4″. What do you recommend? Thank you!
Hi Jane,
Thanks for reaching out. It sounds like your gauge is on the small side, so I’d recommend swatching again with a larger needle! Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
What is the best way to block a finished wrap? Steam blocking? Seems rather large to soak without stretching out the wrap to an even larger size?
Hi Marcia,
Thanks for reaching out. Either wet blocking or spray blocking would work great for this wrap! Linen Quill responds exceptionally well to wet blocking, so that’s my top recommendation (and also how I blocked my own wrap when I made this pattern)!
As you mentioned, It’s important not to stretch your project out too much while it’s soaking, so a good tip for a large project like this is to put it in a pillowcase before placing it in the water to soak so that the entire project can be removed from the water without stretching, and the excess water can be gently pressed out before laying it flat to dry.
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I am using the German short rows, Do I still need to do the twisted wrap and turn?
Hi Maria,
Thanks for reaching out. I would still recommend doing the twisted wrap + turns in those spots! That technique, plus locking the tails, helps make the transition between colors smoother and more secure. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks so much for the quick response.
This looks beautiful! I would love to work a small version like the guage swatches you have shown above. I am not sure how to reduce the number of stitches and repeats to maintain the correct proportions and shape. Is it possible to get directions to make a miniature swatch version! Thank you!
Hi Lauren,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m glad to hear that this pattern has caught your eye! To figure out your cast-on number, you can multiply the number of stitches per inch (6.5, according to the gauge) by the width that you would like and cast on the nearest whole number. Then you can follow the pattern essentially as written, just changing colors at slightly different points.
If you want to replicate the swatches we made, I counted the number of stitches in the photos, and it looks like we cast on 38 or 40 stitches for those. That would give you approximately a 6-inch square swatch! In these swatches, it looks like we knit, for Triangle 1, 9 garter ridges of Color A, 11 garter ridges of color B, and 18 garter ridges of color B. Then for Triangle 2, we knit 17 garter ridges in Section 1, 7 in Section 2, 7 in Section 3, and 7 in Section 4.
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks so much! I will try this!
I would like to make this wrap, but though I’ve done striping for scarves, I think I would like to make this wrap without the stripes. Is that possible? Also, would it work to make it smaller? I think I would like the smaller size of the half and half wrap. Probably just would mean I’d have more leftover yarn, since I want to use all 6 colors of the Terrazo?
Hi Peggy,
Thanks for reaching out. Yes, you can definitely make this wrap without the stripes! If you want to make it the same size as the smaller version of the original wrap, then you can cast on 190 stitches, which is the cast on for that size. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Dear Lili
I like working with the wool and I love the triangle pattern but there is too much fabric when it’s finished and it’s too warm to wear comfortably. I’m thinking of just making the first triangle, with stripes, then picking up the stitches at finishing with a row or two of garter stitch. Do you think that would be stable enough to hold its shape. Would it work?
Hi Joan,
Thanks for reaching out! I think that your idea would be a great solution, and the wrap will definitely still hold its shape!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, I am on color A- I just want to make extra sure I haven’t gone too far and done too many rows. So, I am supposed to have, 59 total garter ridges for that first color.
Hi Corrina,
Thanks for reaching out to double check! You should have 59 garter ridges for Color A by the time you’ve finished all the repeats of Rows 4 and 5. Then, you’ll repeat Row 4 once more, which will create a 60th garter ridge. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Dear Lilli. I am knitting the Striped Half+Half Wrap. The pattern calls to cast on 265 but I have noticed on podcast most are only casting on 260. Did I miss something by casting on 265?
Second question—I am using German Short Rows. I can not find in the Triangle 1 directions when to resolve the short rows. Please advise.
Thank you for your help
Hi Linda,
Thanks for writing in! Hmmm, I think I see where the stitch count confusion is stemming from. We have two versions of this pattern–the original one, with just 2 colors, and this striped one. In the original pattern, there’s a cast-on of 190 stitches for a small version, and a cast-on of 260 stitches for a big version. In the striped version of the pattern, there is one cast-on number of 265 stitches.
In answer to your question about German short rows, we highly recommend using wrap + turn short rows for this pattern, as we’ve found that those make the color transitions between stripes much smoother! It is possible to substitute German short rows though, you’ll just need to knit one additional stitch before making the double stitch. So if the pattern says “knit until 3 stitches remain, wrap and turn,” you’ll actually need to “knit until 2 stitches remain, make double stitch.”
Alternatively, if you want to learn more about wrap + turn short rows, I want to let you know that we have a wonderful tutorial! You can find it right here. We’d also be happy to demonstrate picking up the wraps over Zoom, so if that would be helpful for you, feel free to sign up for a 1-On-1 Project Help session here. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks for your information on number of cast on stitches.
I have already started my Wrap using German Short rows. Would it be wise to start using wrap and turn at this point in construction of the wrap?
I think it might be best to continue with German short rows in that case, actually! That will make sure that everything is consistent throughout.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you for answering my questions.
Linda
I just bought the bundle for this project and I’m wondering if there was a way to download the pattern to print out (I do better with paper than on a screen). Thanks!
Hi Anna,
Thanks for writing in! Here’s how you can download any of our free patterns: If you’re on your computer, you’ll find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find the “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Click on this button, and a window will pop up where you can delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print. When you hover over any image or a text block, it will be highlighted in yellow and a “trash” icon will appear. Just click on this icon to delete anything that’s not necessary to the pattern! For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. Then, click on the “PDF” button in the upper left-hand corner of the pop-up window. Once your PDF has finished downloading, just click the “Download PDF” button, and it will be saved to your computer! (You can also just click the “Print” button if you’d like to print the pattern.)
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks, I got it all printed out!
What is the best course of action if I run out of color A yarn?
I have about 6 rows to go
Hi Corrina,
I’m so sorry to hear that you’re running out of Color A! Can you let me know what your gauge measurements are? We tend to find that people run out of yarn if their gauge is larger than that of the pattern.
The best solution in that case would be to redo your work at the correct gauge, but I can totally understand if you don’t want to do that! And the good news is that there’s another easy solution for this pattern in particular, and that’s just switching to Color B early. Color A is the only one that comes close to using up the entire skein, and there’s more wiggle room with the other colors, so you’ll be able to knit more rows of each of those to make up the distance.
I hope this helps you move forward in your project, and please let me know if any other questions come up!
All the best,
Lili
Hello again, I am not sure if I am doing the wrap and turn correctly. On row 4 of the first triangle, it says “knit to marker, rm, wrp-t.” Does this mean it’s done like row 3? K1, then wrp-t? Or just wrap & turn and carry on with row 5? I hope my question makes sense!
Hi Anna,
No worries, I think I understand your question! On Row 4, you will work the wrp-t on the very next stitch directly after you remove the stitch marker. Then, you will have turned your work and will be in position to begin Row 5. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hello again! So I should have the slipped stitches sitting on the left needle as I go along with the wrp-t? Thanks!
Hi Anna,
Could you let me know what you mean by the “slipped stitches”? Are you referring to the one stitch that you slip as part of the wrp-t?
All the best,
Lili
Yes. Every time I do a wrap turn I have a slipped stitch on the opposite needle that just sits there and I don’t knit it. I’m really excited about this pattern but I’m so confused about this wrap turn. Thanks for your patience!
Hmmmm, it sounds like you may actually be referring to the wrapped stitches! On Triangle 1, once you work a wrap and turn on a stitch, it will just sit on the needle until you work all the wrapped stitches with their wraps on Diagonal Row 1 of Triangle 2. This is the nature of short rows! They’re “short,” so you won’t work all the way across each row when you knit it.
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I think I figured out that I was working the short row. Unfortunately it is filled with tons of gaps so I will need to work on that. Too bad I can’t show you pictures!
Hi Anna,
It’s normal to have gaps between your wrapped stitches! That’s because the wrap pulls the stitch in one direction. But these gaps will be eliminated once you eventually work the wrapped stitches with their wraps on Diagonal Row 1 of Triangle 2.
It sounds like you’re on the right track, but if you’re still worried, please send us a photo of your work! You can reach us by email at customerservice@purlsoho.com.
All the best,
Lili
So excited to try this pattern! I am wanting to do the stripes first, using some advent yarn. After I see all the colors then I’ll decide the bigger color blocks I want for the second triangle. Trying to wrap my head around this. Do you forsee any issues with doing the stripes first?
Thanks!
Hi Jill,
You can absolutely knit the stripier section first! You’ll still need to follow the instructions for Triangle 1, in terms of the short rows, but you can change colors with more frequency.
All the best,
Lili
I was thinking of making a scarf as well but making a bunch of smaller squares and combining them to make it long. Could you recommend how to decrease the amount to cast on?
Hi Jessica!
That idea sounds so lovely! We would recommend checking out our Prism Blanket pattern for this type of modification. It sounds like that pattern might have more of what you are looking for as it is also knit with smaller blocks of color. Let us know if you have any more questions and we would be happy to help!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Is it possible to knit without circle needles? I feel uncomfortable with circular needles?
Hi Gulfi,
Thank you for writing in! You could make this wrap on very long straight needles but it would be quite uncomfortable as the wrap will get a little heavy and could cause your hands to fatigue. If you wanted to try out using circulate needles, I could recommend using a cord length much longer than what is listed in the pattern. This could help eliminate some of the worries you may have about working with circular needles. Please let us know if you have any more questions or need assistance along the way. We are always happy to help!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I’m stuck at literally the first step 🙂 You say to use long-tail cast on, which would suggest a 3×40″ tail… but also to keep tails to 4-6″ and that we’ll run close to running out of color A. Any suggestions for the tail length at the very beginining?
Hi Katy,
Thanks for writing in! You can cast on with the length you find necessary for the size you are making. If the tail seems extremely long, you can wind it up into a small ball and save it for later just in case you need it! I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Sorry, that’s my question though – I’m wondering what length of tail is necessary/suggested for this pattern? 120 inches, or 6?
Oh I see, I apologize about that! There isn’t a set length we recommend here but what I like to do is wrap half the intended amount of stitches on a needle and then double the length of what I get from that! To do this I simply wrap the yarn around a needle counterclockwise. I hope this helps but if you have more questions, please feel free to write us at customerservice@purlsoho.com and we can further assist you!
Question about counting rows – triangle 1 – so after doing the first 5 rows you repeat rows 4 and 5 56 times
So if my math is right: I will have done 61 rows total by the time I’m done with triangle 1??
Hi Mackenzie,
That’s a great question! When you are working the first triangle, this instruction will actually be a total of 117 rows as you are completing both rows 4 + 5 for a total of 56 times. I hope this helps but please let us know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Good afternoon, after completing the first 2 colors, I realized that I was doing something incorrectly and had to pull the whole thing out. 🙁 The shape of the triangle was all wrong. I have been using the german short row method and wonder if that is where the problem started. You had mentioned in a previous post that when doing the GSR you have to knit an extra stitch before the double? Can you tell me what you mean by that? Thanks so much!
JoAnne
Hi JoAnne,
Thank you for writing in! When substituting Wrap + Turns for German Short Rows (GSRs), the stitch that you would wrap and turn is the double stitch for a GSR. This means that you will knit 1 extra stitch in each short row before making a double stitch. I hope this helps but please let us know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella