Little Mitered Stripes Blanket
Our Little Mitered Stripes Blanket is shockingly simple to make. An easy-as-pie four-line repeat that’s mostly just knitting, and then, wowza! The next thing you know, the stripes have taken a turn, and you’ve made something spectacular!
This clever blanket uses a centered double decrease every other row. This simple technique manages to rotate the stripes a full 90 degrees, while creating a crisp diagonal line to the corner.
In our soft, sturdy, and wonderfully springy Knitting Yarn, the Little Mitered Stripes Blanket is warm and cozy.
Made of 100% merino wool from New Zealand, Knitting Yarn is a light worsted (or DK) weight that knits up with fabulous stitch definition, making neat, beautiful little stripes.
Choose any two colors of Knitting Yarn that inspire you… Just four skeins of each color for the crib-sized blanket, and seven of each for the throw. Every color looks classic with Heirloom White, or mix and match for some color play!
Cast on in the colors that show your trues stripes, and have a knitting epiphany!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Hiromi Glover, based on the original Little Mitered Stripes Scarf by Jake Canton. Click here to see even more of Hiromi’s work!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoLittleMiteredStripesBlanket, and #PurlSohoKnittingYarn. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 8 (14) skeins of Purl Soho’s Knitting Yarn, 100% merino wool. Each skein is 219 yards/ 100 grams.
- Color A: 4 (7) skeins; approximately 835 (1525) yards required. We used Heirloom White.
- Color B: 4 (7) skeins; approximately 800 (1330) yards required. We used Violet Sea for the Crib size and Flax Flower Blue for the Throw size.
- US 6 (4 mm), 40- or 47- inch circular needles
- Stitch markers or scrap yarn
We also love how this pattern works up in Heirloom White plus New Leaf Green (below, left) or Piglet Pink (below, right), but with 20 colors of Knitting Yarn to choose from, the options are endless!
GAUGE
21 stitches and 40 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch
SIZES
Crib (Throw)
Finished Dimensions: Approximately 30 (40) inches wide x 40 (53) inches long
NOTES
SLIP STITCHES
Slip all stitches purlwise with yarn in front. After slipping, bring yarn between the needles to back of work, ready to work a knit stitch.
S2KP (SLIP 2, KNIT 1, PSSO)
Slip 2 stitches together knitwise with yarn in back, knit 1, pass slipped stitches over knit stitch and off right needle. [2 stitches decreased]
For additional help, please visit our s2kp Tutorial.
PATTERN
With Color A, cast on 370 (490) stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
TIP: When casting on so many stitches, it helps to place a marker or piece of scrap yarn every 50 stitches. That way, when you lose count (which you will!), you won’t have to recount all the stitches. (Just remember to remove the markers or scrap when you work the Set-Up Row so you don’t confuse them with the markers used in the pattern.)
Set-Up Row (wrong side): With Color A, slip 1 (see Notes), k160 (210), place marker (pm), knit to end of row.
Row 1 (right side): With Color A, slip 1; with Color B, knit to 3 stitches before marker, s2kp (see Notes), remove marker, k1, pm, knit to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): With Color B, slip 1, knit to end of row, slipping marker as you come to it.
Row 3: With Color B, slip 1; with Color A, knit to 3 stitches before marker, s2kp, remove marker, k1, pm, knit to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 4: With Color A, slip 1, knit to end of row, slipping marker as you come to it.
Repeat Rows 1–4 until, with right side facing you, only 1 stitch remains to left of stitch marker, ending with Row 4. [50 (70) stitches remain]
Next Row (right side): With Color A, slip 1 wyif; with Color B, knit to 3 stitches before marker, s2kp, remove marker, k1. [48 (68) stitches remain]
Next Row (wrong side): With Color B, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Cut Colors A and B.
WORK EDGING
Next Row (right side): With right side of work facing you, turn work counterclockwise 90 degrees so live stitches are on the left. With a new strand of Color A, start at top right corner and use right end of circular needles to pick up and knit 161 (211) stitches along top selvage; knit across 48 (68) live stitches; pick up and knit 161 (211) stitches along next selvage. [370 (490) total stitches around two edges of piece]
Next Row (wrong side): With Color A, slip 1, knit to end of row.
With right side facing you, bind off knitwise.
FINISHING
Weave in ends and gently wet block.
Hello, how do you change the dimensions of the blanket while respecting the pattern? I would like to knit hand towels. Thanks a lot.
Hi Lavande,
Thanks for reaching out, and that’s a great question! To adjust the size of this pattern, first multiply the gauge (5.25 stitches per inch) by your desired width, and then, in a separate calculation, by your desired length, and round each resulting number to the nearest odd number. Cast on these two numbers added up, and then, on the Set-Up Row, you can place the stitch marker after you’ve worked the number of stitches for just the width. Finally, just follow the pattern as written!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
I’ve used your above comment to figure out a different size but I’m trying to figure out how many stitches to pick up when working the edging. Where it says: “With right side of work facing you, turn work counterclockwise 90 degrees so live stitches are on the left. With a new strand of Color A, start at top right corner and use right end of circular needles to pick up and knit 161 (211) stitches along top selvage; knit across 48 (68) live stitches; pick up and knit 161 (211) stitches along next selvage. [370 (490) total stitches around three edges of piece]”
For the size I am knitting I am casting on 296 stitches and placing a marker at 127 stitches.
My measurements are 42 in x 56 in. Gauge is 3 st per in- After rounding I get 127 width and 169 length, added together is 296 (cast on) and 127 (pm after 127 st)
I can just pick up as many stitches as I see on that edge but would like to figure out how many stitches I should have to make sure I’m picking up the correct amount. Thanks in advance!
Hi Caitlin,
Thanks for reaching out! When you’re picking up stitches for the edging, you should end up with the same number of stitches as you cast on. So in your case that would be 296 total, 127 on the shorter side and 169 on the longer side!
I also wanted to let you know that we recently caught a typo in the instructions for WORK EDGING. Your picked-up stitches should only be located along 2 edges of the piece, not 3, as we previously had written there!
I hope this helps clarify things, and please let me know if you have any other questions.
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
I love this pattern!! I will search the site for a “how-to” on how to increase the pattern size for a throw size or blanket size and how to figure out how many skeins I would need for this project.
Thank you,
Alisha
(aka…knitting for years, but I still feel like a newbie).
Hi Alisha,
Thanks for writing in! This blanket pattern is has a very unique construction, so you will need to follow a different procedure for adjusting its size. To adjust the size of this pattern, first multiply the gauge (5.25 stitches per inch) by your desired width, and then, in a separate calculation, by your desired length, and round each resulting number to the nearest odd number. Cast on these two numbers added up, and then, on the Set-Up Row, you can place the stitch marker after you’ve worked the number of stitches for just the width. Finally, just follow the pattern as written!
Do you have an idea of how large you’d like your blanket to be? Once you decide on the width and length, I’d be happy to help you determine the number of stitches to cast on, as well as how many skeins you would need. Let me know!
All the best,
Lili
how many stitches to cast on for a blanket size?
Hi Elizabeth,
For the Throw size of this pattern (which is the size of a small blanket, 40 inches wide and 53 inches long) you will cast on 490 stitches! Are you hoping to make a version that’s larger though? If so, please let me know what dimensions you’re envisioning! Then I will be able to calculate your cast-on number for that size.
Alternatively, here’s how to calculate that yourself: To adjust the size of this pattern, first multiply the gauge (5.25 stitches per inch) by your desired width, and then, in a separate calculation, by your desired length, and round each resulting number to the nearest odd number. Cast on these two numbers added up, and then, on the Set-Up Row, you can place the stitch marker after you’ve worked the number of stitches for just the width. Finally, just follow the pattern as written!
All the best,
Lili
Very nice! Simple, understated & classic.
Hi!
I love this pattern, but want a softer yarn. Could it work with season alpaca? or what yarn would you recommend?
Thanks!
Hi Nicole,
Thanks for reaching out. I think that Season Alpaca will work perfectly for this pattern! The only thing you would need to change is the number of stitches you cast on, so that the blanket comes to the correct dimensions.
To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern (if this is daunting, we have a wonderful tutorial called All About Gauge). Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width, and then, in a separate calculation, by the length, and round both resulting numbers to the nearest odd number. Cast on these two numbers added up, and then, on the Set-Up Row, just make sure to place your stitch marker after the number of stitches for just the width, and then you can follow the pattern as written!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks Lili!!
Would I still need 4 skeins of each color?
Hi Nicole,
I’d actually recommend purchasing at least 5 skeins of each color! Season Alpaca has roughly the same yardage as Knitting Yarn, but it’s a slightly thinner yarn, so your gauge will likely be smaller. That will cause you to need a bit more yarn to finish up the blanket!
But I did want to let you know that we accept returns of skeins in their original condition. So if you purchase 5 skeins of each color, I’d recommend only winding each one until you’re certain you need to use it. That way, you can return the 5th one for store credit if you don’t end up using it!
All the best,
Lili
I’m thinking of using more than one contrasting color instead of just the blue shown in the main photos. Because of the unusual nature of the striping, I can’t picture how the colors might appear. Or if it would even work!
Many thanks for any help you can provide!
Hi Jackie,
I think that’s a great idea! It should definitely work, just remember to switch colors on the rows that the pattern indicates, so that your garter ridges all show up as one color each on the right side of the blanket. For reference, Rows 1 + 2 should be knit with the same color, and Rows 3 + 4 should also be knit with the same color (disregarding the slipped stitch at the beginning of some of these rows). But you can definitely switch up the colors on each repeat of the full 4 rows!
All the best,
Lili
I would prefer a corner to corner diagonal design. What adjustments would you make if you wanted the diagonal to go from one corner to the other corner exactly?
Hi Terry,
That’s a great question! To make this blanket so that the diagonal line runs from corner to corner, you will need to make it in a square shape. To do that, just place your stitch marker at just about the center of the cast-on stitches. You’ll need to adjust the stitch count ever so slightly, but here’s how to do that:
For the Crib size…
Cast on 371 stitches, and on the Set-Up Row, slip 1 stitch, knit 183 stitches, and then place the stitch marker.
For the Throw size…
Cast on 491 stitches, and on the Set-Up Row, slip 1 stitch, knit 243 stitches, and then place the stitch marker.
Then you can follow the pattern as written until just one stitch remains!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
I’m currently working on the baby blanket size in this adjusted pattern (corner to corner) & I was wondering, would you happen to know what the adjustments would be if I wanted to do this in a standard facecloth size?
Thank you 🙂
Hi Charli,
Thanks for reaching out! The cast-on number would depend on your preferred dimensions for a facecloth. Once you’ve decided on those, you can follow this procedure for determining your cast-on number:
First, knit a gauge swatch in pattern. Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width that you would like, double the resulting number, and cast on the nearest odd number. Then you can follow the pattern as written, but place your stitch marker on the Set-Up Row so that there are 3 fewer stitches before the marker than there are after it!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks so much 🙂
What are the numbers that are In parentheses?? Such as this below:
With Color A, cast on 370 (490) stitches.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): With Color A, slip 1 (see Notes), k160 (210), place marker (pm), knit to end of row.
Is it casting on 370 or 490 stitches? Because that is a HUGE difference.
Also is k160 knit 160 or 210? These instructions are written for experienced knitters & need to be explained more in detail for someone that isn’t. I have a logic brain & can’t make sense of the differing numbers. Thx & frustrated!
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for writing in. We designed this pattern in two different sizes, Crib and Throw! If you’re making the Crib size blanket, you’ll only follow the number before the parentheses, and if you’re making the Throw version, then you follow the number inside the parentheses. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I have completed most of the blanket. I am at work edging and can not understand the directions. I’m not familiar with the terminology…are live stitches the ones still on the needle? Do I need a second set of needles? I wish there was a tutorial because I just can’t figure it out. I’ve been knitting for 50 plus years. Please help.
Hi Donna,
Thanks for reaching out, although I’m sorry to hear that the edge of this blanket is confusing! You’re absolutely correct, the live stitches are the ones that are still on the needle. You do not need a second set of needles though! You will use the right end of the 40- or 47-inch needles you’re already working with (keeping the live stitches on the left end) to begin picking up stitches along the top edge of the blanket.
While we do not have a tutorial for this pattern in particular, we do have a tutorial about picking up stitches in general, which you may find helpful! You can find that right here.
I hope this helps clarify things, but please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Lili
Beautiful and interesting pattern that once again has Purl Soho distinctively clever shaping!
To push that shaping a step further, could the pattern be adjusted to result in two diagonals, each coming out of an opposite corner?
Also, what is your softest 100% Moreno Wool yarn and would it be appropriate for this pattern?
I always appreciate your good advice. Thank you
Hi Fran,
Thank you so much for writing in! To add multiple diagonal stripes in this blanket, the easiest way would be to work a S2KP on rows 1 and 3 after your desired width of the blanket, and then another S2KP after your desired length of the blanket, being sure to leave an equal amount of stitches after your last S2KP as there were before your first S2KP. This will create a V shape of diagonal lines but may require some more adjustments as you get close to the end of the blanket!
As for the softest merino wool that would work with this gauge, Knitting Yarn is definitely a very soft option, and Cashmere Merino Bloom is even softer! You can find Cashmere Merino Bloom right here.
I hope this helps with your project planning!
All the best,
Margaret
What a great look! I see by the comments you’ve been so generous with your tips. I wonder if you’d be willing to provide instructions for an afghan or blanket sized throw using 4-ply worsted weight yarn. Thanks so much.
Hi April,
We’re glad to hear you like our newest design! I’d be happy to help you adjust the pattern for the yarn you want to use and the size you’d like to make. But first, you’ll need to determine the following things: A) Your gauge, in pattern, with the yarn you’re using, and B) the dimensions (length and width) of the size you want to make.
Once you determine these two factors, you can follow the instructions I’ve written in previous comments to get started knitting! If you’d like more assistance with the calculations, just let me know your gauge and dimensions, and then I can help out more for your specific project.
All the best,
Lili
A little late to this comment but I would greatly appreciate assistance with calculations for an Afghan-sized blanket using worsted weight yarn. Many thanks in advance!
Hi Kal,
Thanks for reaching out! If you let me know what dimensions you’re thinking of for the blanket, as well as your gauge with the worsted weight yarn, I’d be happy to help you calculate this. If you’d like to try the calculations yourself, then here’s what to do:
Once you’ve knit a gauge swatch and know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width, and then, in a separate calculation, by the length, and round both resulting numbers to the nearest odd number. Cast on these two numbers added up, and then, on the Set-Up Row, just make sure to place your stitch marker after the number of stitches for just the width, and then you can follow the pattern as written!
All the best,
Lili
is there a way to download the pattern without all the big pictures? I like to print patterns.
Hi Lynne,
Thanks for writing in, and there is indeed a way! If you’re on your computer, you’ll find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find the “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Click on this button, and a window will pop up where you can delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print. When you hover over any image or a text block, it will be highlighted in yellow and a “trash” icon will appear. Just click on this icon to delete anything that’s not necessary to the pattern! For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. Then, just click on the “Print” button in the upper left-hand corner of the pop-up window!
All the best,
Lili
Is it possible to make this with three colors?
Hi Crystal!
Thank you for reaching out. It is definitely possible to make this with three colors! All you’d need to do is add two more rows (rows 5 and 6) to your repeat, each in your third color. You can work these rows exactly like rows 3 and 4, and then repeat rows 1-6 for the rest of your blanket!
I hope this helps, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
I want to make the blanket a square as discussed above. How do I adjust the amount of yarn I would need ? Thanks, Jan
Hi Jan,
Thanks for writing in! Can you let me know the dimensions you’re planning to knit the blanket (in a square shape)? I’ll need to know the length of each side before I’m able to calculate how much yarn you’ll need.
Thanks so much,
Lili
Hi,
When I get to the end of the row and slip the stitch with one yarn before starting the next on the second stitch, it is staying joined to the previous row. Is this correct?
Hi Sally,
Thanks for reaching out. Yes, you’re absolutely correct! The working yarn (in either color) will remain attached to a previous row when you begin knitting with it on the next row after the first slipped stitch. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks so much for your quick response Lili. Sorry in advance if this is a dumb follow-up question! Does that not join it in the round? Or does itjust hangs there without doing that?
You’re very welcome, Sally! Because you are turning your work after every row (and not joining in the round), you will continue to knit the blanket flat.
All the best,
Lili
I think maybe I forgot to turn the work at some point. Will begin again and see how I get on. Thanks so much again for getting back to me.
Hi,
I love this pattern and trying it out right now, but shouldn’t you change colors on the right side, because now my right side looks as the wrong side and also the ridge is on the wrong side..
Hi Saskia,
Thanks for reaching out. In the pattern, you actually do change colors on the right side! On Row 1 (right side), you will begin knitting with Color B, and on Row 3 (right side), you will change back to Color A.
I hope this helps clarify things, but if you’re still running into issues in your project, I’d recommend sending a photo of your work to customerservice@purlsoho.com. We’ll be able to give more specific advice if we can visualize what’s going on!
All the best,
Lili
I would like to make the crib size as a baby gift, but noticed while the recommended yarn is lovely and a great price point, it is hand wash and dry flat. Do you have a washable yarn recommendation that would work well for this pattern and hold up?
Hi Marcia,
Thanks for reaching out. For a machine washable DK weight yarn, I’d recommend Annual’s Cricket! This yarn is a blend of superwash merino wool, cashmere, and nylon, so it’s extremely durable and can go in the washing machine and dryer. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I just finished knitting this baby blanket with exception of working the edging. I am curious if others have found themselves with full skeins of colors A&B leftover? I used the suggested yarn for this project. I guess I’ll have to find another project.
Hi Judith,
Thanks for writing in! One reason that you may have ended up with so much yarn left over is the tension you knit the blanket at. If your gauge is on the small side (even only slightly), then you’ll automatically use up less yarn than expected. You can test this out by measuring the number of stitches and rows per inch!
If you’re looking for another pattern to use up the extra yarn, I’d recommend the Arched Gusset Mittens. We recently redid this pattern in Knitting Yarn, and it works so well for the design!
All the best,
Lili
Hello,
Unfortunately my Addie needles came unclicked and my marker dropped out and I put all the stitches back on but I don’t know if the marker goes to the right or left of the double decrease stitch. I’m on Row1 in the repeat and I’ve knit up to 4 stitches away from the mitre stitch. I hope this makes sense. The tutorial says to go up to 1 stitch before but this pattern says to go up to 3 stitches. Not sure why this is. Thanks for your help!
Hi Sara,
Thanks for reaching out! The way the marker is positioned, it’s actually one stitch after the s2kp stitch. So either knitting up to 1 stitch before the s2kp or 3 stitches before the marker actually gets you to the exact same point! To replace the marker, I’d recommend knitting to 1 stitch before the s2kp, working the s2kp, knitting 1 stitch, and then placing the marker. That will return it to the correct spot!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
I just got to the end of the blanket, before the edging, where I have one stitch to the left of the marker. All looks fine BUT I have 45 stitches instead of 50…. I don’t see any glaring mistakes in. Any suggestions on how to move forward?
Thanks in advance,
Sally
Hi Sally,
Thanks for writing in! What likely happened is that you placed your marker at a slightly different point when casting on. The only difference this causes is a slight difference in the finished length and width of the blanket!
You can absolutely move forward with your stitch count as is. The only thing you’ll need to keep in mind is that you’ll have a slightly different number of stitches to pick up during WORK EDGING. But what you can do is just make sure to pick up one new stitch in each existing stitch, and that will ensure that everything comes out evenly!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks so much Lili! Will give it a whirl….
Hello! I’d like to add about 2 inches to the short side (making the blanket 32×40 instead of 30×40). Should I just add 12 stitches (assuming my gauge is the same) and put the first marker at 172 stitches then follow the pattern from there?
Also will this pattern work with a knitted cast-on instead of the long-tail?
Thank you!
Hi Emily,
Thanks for reaching out. Yes, you have exactly the right idea for how to add width to this pattern! That will work perfectly.
However, I wouldn’t advise doing a knitted cast-on for this pattern. That’s because a knitted cast-on is essentially like working a wrong side row, while a long tail cast-on is essentially like working a right side row (in terms of where the working yarn ends up and which side of the work the purl bumps end up on). The Set-Up Row for this pattern is a wrong side row, so it naturally works after the long tail cast-on.
You could technically do a knitted cast-on (and it would be easier not to have to calculate the tail!), but because you would be working two wrong side rows in a row, you’ll end up with an extra row of stockinette stitch instead of keeping with the garter stitch pattern, and it will show up as two rows of purl bumps on the right side of the blanket. It’s really not a huge difference, but I just wanted to let you know in case you prefer one look over the other!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
Just starting this blanket and wondering if I need to carry the color that is not being worked along with the color that IS being worked? Or do I just leave it and pick it up when I come back to that side? Thanks!
Hi Jenny,
Thanks for writing in! Since you’re only working two rows at a time with each color, you won’t need to carry the yarn up at all. You can just leave it, and it will be there to pick up when you return to that edge!
All the best,
Lili
Hello! I would like to make this as a baby blanket so I would love for it to be a washable yarn. I was thinking of using the Campo yarn. Would this yarn work for this pattern?
Hi Adrienne,
Thanks for writing in! I’m afraid Campo would not work for this pattern since it’s much thicker than Knitting Yarn. Campo is a worsted/aran weight whereas Knitting Yarn is DK weight. Instead, I’d highly recommend Morning (https://www.purlsoho.com/morning.html) for this blanket! It’s made of a super soft blend of cotton and yak so it is hypoallergenic and it is machine washable as well. It is a DK weight yarn so it would be perfect in terms of gauge! I hope this helps!
All the best,
Cat
Thank you so much!
Hello,
I’m looking at knitting the swatch for this blanket – the pattern says 21 stitches and 40 rows, where should I be placing the marker in the set up row?
Thanks for your help!
Hi Beth,
Thanks for your comment! For your swatch, I’d recommend placing the stitch marker after you’ve worked about 43% of however many stitches you cast on! This is consistent with where the marker is placed in the pattern, so your smaller swatch will stay proportional to the blanket. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Cat
I just finished knitting the little mitered stripes blanket and it came out great. The whole time I was knitting I had a hard time envisioning the way it would finish, but trusted the pattern. I do have one nitpick (knitpick?) on the final rows. On the round that you are picking up all of the stitches, you say “With right side of work facing you, turn work counterclockwise 90 degrees so live stitches are on the left. With a new strand of Color A, start at top right corner and use right end of circular needles to pick up and knit 161 (211) stitches along top selvage”. I think it should be the left end of the circular needle. I realized as I got close to the live stitches that it wasn’t going to work out and just transferred all of the stitches to the left end of the needle–no harm done.
All in all a very elegant pattern. I’m currently winding my line weight to cast on the scarf!!
Hi Paula,
Thanks for writing in, and I’m so glad to hear that your blanket came out great! You bring up a great point, as the “right” and “left” labels can be very ambiguous when used in pattern instructions. At this point in the pattern, if you lay out your needles in a straight line, with the live stitches on the cord, the end that you will eventually use to pick up the stitches on the other edge is indeed off to the left. However, once you bring the needles into position to actually knit with them, this will become the right needle, since you’ll be knitting from right to left! Because of that, we choose to label it as the “right end,” since it is on the right side when you’re actually knitting with it. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hi – silly question probably but is this joined in the round?
Hi Rachel,
Thanks for reaching out. This pattern is knit flat, so you will not join it in the round!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, almost done with the body of this and thinking about the edge. Since the slip stitch edge is every other row, will I pick up every stitch or stick to the 3 out of 4 rule?
Thanks for all your help.
Hi Mimi,
Because this blanket is knit in garter stitch, the 3 to 4 rule doesn’t actually apply! It’s a great rule of thumb for picking up stitches along a vertical edge of stockinette stitch, since the ratio of row to stitch gauge is generally about 4:3. However, the ratio of row to stitch gauge in garter stitch is much closer to 2:1, so you will need to pick up 1 stitch for every 2 rows (or 1 ridge) of garter stitch!
All the best,
Lili
On a Row 2 came to stitch marker. To left of stitch marker are two color B stitches and then two color A stitches. This row is meant to be all color B. I made a mistake but I don’t know exactly what I did wrong or how to correct it. Is this enough information for you to help me?
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! I believe what may have happened is that you missed the final step of the s2kp on the previous row. In the s2kp, you first slipped 2 (Color A) stitches knitwise, knit the next stitch (creating a color B stitch), and then what should have happened is those 2 slipped stitches get passed over the knit stitch and off the needle. However, if this step doesn’t happen, then the 2 Color A stitches remain on the needle! To fix this, you should be able to is knit the first Color B stitch after the marker, turn your work around, and then retroactively slip the two Color A stitches over the stitch directly to their left and off the needle.
I hope this helps, but if this doesn’t solve the issue, I’d recommend sending a photo of your work to customerservice@purlsoho.com. That way, we’ll be able to visualize exactly what’s going on!
All the best,
Lili
Composing yesterday’s note and taking a break made me realize I needed to undo to the color A stitches to get back to pattern. Back on pattern now. Thank you!
Hi. I want to make this a size down from crib, I’m guessing what you would call “baby” size. How many stitches would I need to cast on? And then where would I place the marker? Thanks for your time
Hi MC,
Thanks for reaching out, and that’s a great question! To adjust the size of this pattern, first multiply the gauge (5.25 stitches per inch) by your desired width, and then, in a separate calculation, by your desired length, and round each resulting number to the nearest odd number. Cast on these two numbers added up, and then, on the Set-Up Row, you can place the stitch marker after you’ve worked the number of stitches for just the width. Finally, just follow the pattern as written!
All the best,
Lili
Hello – I have really enjoyed knitting this blanket but the term pick up and knit has me stumped. I watched the tutorial on how to pick up, but have no idea how to pick up AND KNIT. I am also confused about which end of the circular needle I should use. I think it is the one you call the right. If I am looking at the live stitches, with the right side facing me, it should be the one where I just finished knitting? Help, help, help!
Hi Lisa,
These are great questions! The instruction “pick up and knit” means to pick up using the new working yarn (the “new strand of Color A) for each picked up stitch. This is because you want to bring the working yarn along with you so that when you get to the live stitches, you’re able to knit them with the working yarn!
You can definitely follow our tutorial for this part as we show picking up and knitting and you would be working with the right end of your circular needles to do so. In contrast, the term “picking up” by itself would just mean sliding your needle into each stitch and not using the working yarn at all. For any instances where working yarn is used for picking up, we make sure to say “pick up and knit” in our patterns as opposed to just “pick up” to be extra clear. I hope this helps, and please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Cat
Cat – I am so sorry to be so dense. Is there some way to write to you to clarify using diagrams. I could easily photograph or draw a diagram to show you what I’m finding so confusing. I get the part now about what pick up and knit is, but I am still confused about where to start this. You say right end of the needles. Is that facing the right or wrong side of the piece?
Hi Lisa,
I’d recommend reaching out to us by sending an email to customerservice@purlsoho.com! A photo or diagram will be really helpful I think!
All the best,
Lili
Hello! I love the look of this blanket and would like to knit it in a more baby friendly/machine washable yarn. Can you recommend one? Also, sadly all the colors I want to use are out of stock. Do you know when you will get more? I may knit a throw for myself too! Thank you so much!
Hi Kari,
Thanks for writing in! For a machine-washable alternative, I’d recommend Serif. This yarn is 100% cotton, and it’s also a DK weight yarn, so you’l easily be able to match the gauge of the pattern.
While I’m not sure when we’re getting more Knitting Yarn in stock, I’d be happy to check in with our planning team to see when they’ll place another order! Can you let me know which colors you’re interested in?
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili
I am confused in my attempts to turn it into a wrap. I want it longer and less wide than the blanket so it is more like 30 by 75. I didn’t see anyone else ask for this type of advice but wondered if it would be easy to adjust. Thanks!
Hi Jane,
Here’s how you can calculate your cast on-number for a wrap: First multiply the gauge (5.25 stitches per inch) by your desired width, and then, in a separate calculation, by your desired length, and round each resulting number to the nearest odd number. Cast on these two numbers added up, and then, on the Set-Up Row, you can place the stitch marker after you’ve worked the number of stitches for just the width. Finally, just follow the pattern as written!
So for dimensions of 30 inches by 75 inches, here’s how you would do the math:
5.25 st/in * 30 in = 157.5, rounded to 157 st
5.25 st/in * 75 in = 393.75, rounded to 393 st
157 st + 393 st = 550 st
So you would cast on 550 stitches and place your stitch marker after the 157th stitch on the Set-Up Row. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
A friend of mine has asked me to knit a version of this in “hot pink” and her mom has requested that it be washable. Can you suggest a yarn that meets these requirements and is more of more of a worsted/aran?
Thank you!
Andrea
Hi Andrea,
Thanks for reaching out! I’d recommend For Better Or Worsted in Hyacinth for this project. This yarn is made with super wash wool, so you can put it in the washer and dryer! It’s technically a worsted weight yarn, but it’s spun pretty tightly so you should easily be able to meet the gauge of this pattern. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi –
Wondering if there is any reason I couldn’t modify the pattern to be in stockinette instead of a garter stitch, the only adjustment I *think* would be that on the even rows I would purl instead of knit.
Also, could I just cast off after the last row of the main pattern then pick up stitches on all four sides and do an i-cord edge?
Thanks!
Hi Emily,
Thanks for writing in! I would not recommend making this blanket in stockinette stitch because stockinette stitch curls considerably at the edges. We designed this blanket in garter stitch to ensure it lays flat! Another snag you might run into with stockinette stitch is the ratio of stitches to rows. Stockinette stitch has a taller row gauge than garter stitch, so that might cause the blanket not to be a perfect rectangle.
Overall, I’d recommend sticking to garter stitch for this pattern!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you!
Makes sense, what about an i-cord edge?
You’re welcome! An i-cord edge would look great on this blanket!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I’m a beginner knitter and I would like to do this blanket with more than two colors. When I’m finished knitting with one color, do I just cut off the yarn and move to the new color? Is there anything special that I need to do?
Hi Peggy,
Thanks for writing in! In this pattern, you will leave each color attached until instructed to cut! This will help you get a seamless effect!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hi Team,
Absolutely love this blanket. It was my first time knitting this style and I definitely had trouble envisioning it come together but it is brilliant how it comes together. It was also very easy to knit.
I do have one question though, what bind off method do you recommend?
Hi Kyleagh,
We’re so happy to hear that you’ve enjoyed knitting this blanket! We just used a basic bind-off for our sample, so that’s what we recommend.
All the best,
Lili
hello! what do you think happens if this blanket is knit in one color instead of striping with two? you’d still see the cool mitered effect and have the garter ridges, it’d just be monochromatic. or if you didn’t stripe but did more like a gradient, with three or four grays for a bunch of rows?
Hi Marykate,
Thank you for writing in! Those options all sound like wonderful ideas and we encourage you to go with whatever you like best. One way to test out the colors is by knitting a small swatch to compare which option you like better! I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella