DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.30$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Autumn Smiles Cardigan

Knitted jacket for babies and children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked top down with raglan, garter stitch, cables and pockets. Sizes 6 months - 8 years.

DROPS Children 37-15
DROPS Design: Pattern no me-062-bn
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 years)
The size is approx. equivalent to the child’s height in cm:
68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128)
The size is approx. equivalent to the child’s height in feet:
2ft3/2ft5 – 2ft7/2ft9 (3ft – 3ft3/3ft5 - 3ft7/3ft9 – 4ft/4ft2)

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 52-56 (60-62-68-72) cm = 20 1/2”-22” (23 5/8”-24 3/8”-26 3/4”-28 3/8”)
Full length: 30-33 (36-40-44-48) cm = 11 3/4”-13” (14 1/4”-15 3/4”-17 1/4”-19”)

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
300-300 (350-350-400-450) g color 23, grey blue

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 5-6 (6-6-7-7) items.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.30$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit the last stitch. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the neck measures 1½-2 cm = 1/2”-3/4”. Then work the other 4-5 (5-5-6-6) buttonholes with approx. 5-4½ (5-5½-5½-6) cm = 2"-1 5/8" (2"-2 1/8"-2 1/8"-2 3/8") between each one.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

RAGLAN:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch on each side of each A.1 and A.2 (= 8 stitches increased on the row).
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid a hole.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the piece as follows: Work 1 stitch in garter stitch, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased), work garter stitch until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased) and finish with 1 stitch in garter stitch (= a total of 2 stitches decreased).

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off and the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The jacket is worked top down, back and forth with circular needle and from mid front. The sleeves are worked back and forth with circular needle, then sewn together to finish. The pockets are worked back and forth with circular needle and sewn onto the jacket.

NECK:
Cast on 68-72 (80-80-88-92) stitches (including 4 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and Merino Extra Fine. Work 2 RIDGES – read description above and increase 4 stitches evenly spaced on the last row = 72-76 (84-84-92-96) stitches.

YOKE:
The next row is worked as follows from the right side – remember BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above:
Work 10-11 (13-13-15-16) stitches in garter stitch (= left front piece), A.1 (= 6 stitches), 8 stitches in garter stitch, A.2 (= 6 stitches) (= left sleeve), 12-14 (18-18-22-24) stitches in garter stitch (= back piece), A.1 over the next 6 stitches, 8 stitches in garter stitch, A.2 over the next 6 stitches (= right sleeve), 10-11 (13-13-15-16) stitches in garter stitch (= right front piece).
Work 1 row from the wrong side.
Increase to RAGLAN – read description above – on each side of each A.1 and A.2 as follows:
Increase every 2nd row a total of 5 times, then every 4th row a total of 9-10 (11-12-13-14) times = 184-196 (212-220-236-248) stitches.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When all the increases to raglan are finished the piece measures approx. 11-12 (13-14-15-16) cm = 4 3/8”-4 3/4” (5 1/8”-5 1/2”-6”-6 1/4”) from the cast-on edge.
If necessary, continue working with garter stitch and cables but without further increases until the piece measures 11-12 (13-14-15-16) cm = 4 3/8”-4 3/4” (5 1/8”-5 1/2”-6”-6 1/4”).
On the next row divide the piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Work 28-30 (33-34-37-39) stitches in garter stitch (= front piece), place the next 40-42 (44-46-48-50) stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6 new stitches under the sleeve, work 48-52 (58-60-66-70) stitches in garter stitch (= back piece), place the next 40-42 (44-46-48-50) stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6 new stitches under the sleeve, work 28-30 (33-34-37-39) stitches in garter stitch (= front piece).

BODY:
= 116-124 (136-140-152-160) stitches.
Work garter stitch until the piece measures 16-18 (20-23-26-29) cm = 6 1/4”-7” (8”-9”-10 1/4”-11 3/8”) from where the body and sleeves were divided. Bind off – read BINDING-OFF TIP.

SLEEVE:
Place the 40-42 (44-46-48-50) stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on circular needle size 4 mm = US 6. Cast on 4 stitches at the end of the next 2 rows (= 4 new stitches on each side of the piece) = 48-50 (52-54-56-58) stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side). Work garter stitch back and forth.
When the piece measures 2 cm = 3/4” from the division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the piece – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 8th-10th (12th-14th-14th-14th) row a total of 7-7 (7-7-8-8) times = 34-36 (38-40-40-42) stitches.
Continue with garter stitch until the sleeve measures 17-20 (24-29-32-35) cm = 6 3/4”-8” (9 1/2”-11 3/8”-12 1/2”-13 3/4”) from the division. Bind off.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

POCKET:
Cast on 14-14 (16-16-18-18) stitches with circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and Merino Extra Fine. Work garter stitch back and forth until the piece measures 7-7 (8-8-9-9) cm = 2 3/4”-2 3/4” (3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/2”-3 1/2”). Bind off.
Work one more pocket in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the sleeve seams inside the 1 edge stitch. Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew buttons onto the left band. Sew on the pockets, approx. 3-3 (3-4-4-4) cm = 1 1/8”-1 1/8” (1 1/8”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”) above the bottom edge and in the middle of each front piece.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 14.06.2021
Correction in buttonholes.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = place 3 stitches on the cable needle at the back of the piece, knit 3, knit 3 from the cable needle
symbols = place 3 stitches on the cable needle in front of the piece, knit 3, knit 3 from the cable needle
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (28)

country flag Stella wrote:

Wie kann ich die Wolle bestellen ? merino extra fine moosgrün 350 gr es gelingt mir nicht , die Bestellfelder bleiben immer rosa mit freundl. Grüßen Stella

08.03.2024 - 12:38

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Stella, wenn sie auf "bestellen" bei dieser Seite klicken, dann werden Sie zur Homepage von Algawo weitergeleitet, dort können Sie direkt bestellen - dh Sie sollen neue Fenster öffnen lassen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.03.2024 - 13:42

country flag Pamela Aguirre wrote:

Hola Carolina Tengo agujas rectas. Como se puede tejer este precioso suéter? Muchas Gracias

18.06.2023 - 02:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Pamela, puedes leer la siguiente lección para ver las adaptaciones necesarias: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=13&cid=23. Ten en cuenta que debido al elevado número de puntos puede resultar incómodo usar agujas rectas para trabajar esta chaqueta.

18.06.2023 - 20:03

country flag Cristina Borghetti wrote:

Buongiorno Vorrei lavorare le maniche con i ferri circolari; devo mantenere lo stesso numero di diminuzioni?

03.05.2023 - 19:14

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Cristina, si, può eliminare le maglie di vivagno per la cucitura. Buon lavoro!

03.05.2023 - 22:08

country flag Joan Spence wrote:

I’ve just begun the cables and can’t see how many rows to knit in between them. eg after 5 rows, after 7? Thanks

01.05.2023 - 17:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Joan, There are 7 rows between each cable row, 2 before the cabling and 5 after before repeating the diagram. Happy knitting!

02.05.2023 - 06:48

country flag Claire Withnell wrote:

I am knitting to the exact tension where 28 rows is 10 cm. For the raglan increases in size 3 ( 2 yrs) the increases are every 2nd row 5 times ie knit 10 rows, then every 4th row 11 times ie another 44 rows which makes a total of 54 rows. According to the tension given this should measure 20cm not 13 cm as stated on the pattern. My garment is therefore far too long to achieve 212 stitches. Please can you advise?

25.02.2023 - 22:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Claire, the gauge was calculated in stocking stitch. However, in this section of the raglan you work in garter stitch. So the gauge calculated can't be applied here. The garter stitch gauge is usually higher than the stocking stitch gauge (approx. 48 rows in 10 cm), so there are more rows in 10 cm than in stocking stitch. Therefore, you could have 54 rows in 13 cm. Happy knitting!

26.02.2023 - 23:49

country flag Schröer wrote:

Hallo, \r\nwarum muss ich bei dieser Jacke in Größe 92/98 für den Halsausschnitt, der nach der Zeichnung 2 x 11cm=22cm breit wird, 80M abzgl. 2x4 Blendenmaschen = 72 Maschen anschlagen, wenn laut Maschenprobe 21 M 10cm entsprechen. Das sind dann ca. 35cm Halsumfang. Das ist deutlich mehr als 22cm.\r\nBei den anderen Jacken ist es ähnlich, sodass ich nicht glaube, dass es ein Schreibfehler ist. Wo denke ich falsch??\r\nDanke fürs Kümmern\r\nCh. Schröer

21.02.2023 - 14:33

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Schröer, wenn mann von oben nach unten strickt, werden die Maschen für den ganzen Umfang rechnen, dh Halsausschnitt aber auch Schulter (3 cm werden hier für jede Schulter gezählt) - sollte Ihre Maschenprobe (in Maschen- bzw Reihenanzahl) stimmen, dann bekommen Sie die genaue Maßnahmen wie bei der Skizze. Beachten Sie nur, daß die 3. Größe für 2 Jahre/92 cm und die 4. Größe für 3/4 Jahren / 98/104 cm gelten). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

22.02.2023 - 09:13

country flag Netty Vogel wrote:

Is het mogelijk om over dit patroon telefonisch te overleggen? ik ben al drie keer aan het vestje begonnen en steeds gaat het mis bij de kabels. Met vriendelijke groet, Netty Vogel

22.03.2022 - 10:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Netty,

Helaas hebben wij geen telefoondienst. Zou het lukken om bij een breiwinkel of breiclub in de buurt langs te gaan? Je kunt dan het breiwerk meenemen en dan kan iemand anders meekijken.

24.03.2022 - 11:57

country flag Netty Vogel wrote:

Goedemiddag , Een vraag over patroon nr ..me 062-bn ,het blauwe meisjesvest in ribbelsteek met kabel. Bij de pas, laatste regel: Brei 1 naald aan de verkeerde kant. Moet er bij deze naalden aan de verkeerde kant ook A1 en A2 toegepast worden met de kabelnaald? Of brei ik alleen deze 6 steken in averecht. En moet ik de meerderingen voor de raglan zelf uitrekenen , omdat ik hiervoor geen telpatroon zie. Met vriendelijke groet, Netty Vogel

16.03.2022 - 15:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Netty,

Als je aan de verkeerde kant breit, brei je inderdaad de 6 steken van A.1 of A.2 averecht. In de beschrijving staat dat je 1 naald aan de verkeerde kant moet breien. Dit is omdat je dan je de volgende naald, waarbij je begint met meerderen voor de raglan, aan de goede kant moet breien.

18.03.2022 - 08:56

country flag Anne Dickson wrote:

Hi there! Buttonholes-it says that buttonholes are worked on the right side, right band. But if they’re done at the end of the row as the instructions suggest (‘Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, k it two together and knit the last stitch’.) Surely this would mean that the buttonhole would be on the left band?Can you help, please?

08.12.2021 - 18:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Dickson, the jacket is worked from the top down, this means from RS you start with left front piece and end with right front piece, the buttonholes will be worked at the end of a row from right side. Happy knitting!

09.12.2021 - 07:24

country flag Alice wrote:

When you are doing the increases for Raglan, do you have to move along where you will do the increase? I.e., for a 3/4 size, it says the front left is 13 stitches. I then increase. Does that mean I then knit 14 stitches for the next round? Another example: between A1 and A2, I'm to knit 8 stitches initially. Does this increase 2 after each increase? Thank you.

30.09.2021 - 11:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Alice, yes. You should move the markers in each row, and then you will see that the number od stitches on each "piece" grows, and ypu go ahead with the yoke. The two frins by 1 stitch, the sleeves and the back by two stitch in each round with increases. Happy Stitching!

30.09.2021 - 16:02