I live in Australia where AFL is big and winter gets cold. There's only so many footy scarves a girl can own. I wanted something warmer and, well... girlier. I've also been wanting to try my hand at two tone cables for absolutely ages. Two birds my friends.
The wrap patten is split into columns after the initial rib. Lattice either side of the cables, knit on the outside and a block of stocking stitch in the middle.
I used six balls of Official AFL easy knit 12 ply premium acrylic (footy fans spill stuff, its gotta be easy to wash) in brown for the main colour, and two balls of yellow for the contrasting cables. This got it to 196cm long and 59cm wide. To make it wider just add more stitches in the middle section of stocking stitch. There is 32 cable repeats in mine but just add more or less to make it longer or shorter.
To begin... Cast on 132 stitches with 4.5mm needles and work 15 rows in K2,P2 rib.
On the last row of rib place markers as follows: work 5 stitches, PM, work 8 stitches, PM, work 32 stitches, PM, work 8 stitches, PM, work 26 stitches, PM, work 8 stitches, PM, work 32 stitches, PM, work 8 stitches, PM, work 5 stitches.
Every row will now be worked in this order of sections: Knit, Lattice, Cable, Lattice, Stocking Stitch, Lattice, Cable, Lattice, Knit.
The first and last 5 stitches on every row are knitted.
The sections with 8 stitches are the lattice sections and are the same every row: K3, bring yarn forward under the needle, bring yarn over and back under needle to create a new stitch, P2tog, bring yarn over and back under needle to create a new stitch, P2tog, K1.
The section with 26 stitches in the middle is stocking stitch and starts with a knit row.
Lastly the sections with 32 stitches, the cable sections. Two tone cables seem a lot more daunting than they actually are. If you've ever done fair isle or intarsia and cables before then it's really a cake walk. Key things to remember are to always keep your non working yarn hanging straight down on the wrong side of the work. Always bring the new yarn over the old one. If your team only has two colours both cables will be the same but if your team has three colours then you can do a different colour each side. The knit stitches of the cable are done as the contrast colour and the purl stitches are done in the main colour. When working on the wrong side of course that's flipped around and the main colour is knitted and the contrast is purled. For every wrong side row just knit the knits and purl the purls.
Row 1: P6, C4B, P4, C4B, P4, C4B, P6.
Row 3: P5, CR3R, (CR4L, CR4R)x2, CR3L, P5.
Row 5: P4, CR3R, P1, (P2,C4F,P2)x2, P1, CR3L, P4.
Row 7: P4, K2, P2, (CR4R, CR4L)x2 P2, K2, P4.
Row 9: P4, (K2, P2)x2, P2, C4B, P2, (P2, K2)x2, P4.
Row 11: P4, K2, P2, (CR4L, CR4R)x2, P2, K2, P4.
Row 13: P4, CR3L, P1, (P2, C4F, P2)x2, P1, CR3R, P4.
Row 15: P5, CR3L, (CR4R, CR4L)x2, CR3R, P5.
Cable abbreviations are as follows:
C4F - Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and hold at the front of work, Knit next 2 stitches, then Knit 2 stitches on cable needle.
C4B - Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and hold at the back of work, Knit next 2 stitches, then Knit 2 stitches on cable needle.
CR3L - Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and hold at the front of work, Purl 1 stitch, then Knit 2 stitches on cable needle.
CR3R - Slip next stitch onto a cable needle and hold at the back of work, Knit 2 stitches, then Purl the stitch on cable needle.
CR4L - Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and hold at the front of work, Purl 2 stitches, then Knit 2 stitches on cable needle.
CR4R - Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and hold at the back of work, Knit 2 stitches, then Purl 2 stitches on cable needle.
Finish on either a row 15 or 16 of the cable pattern and work another 15 rows in K2, P2 rib then cast off.
I've proofread this about 20 times, but if I've missed anything please let me know so I can fix it. Any questions just ask!
