Knitty: Sidewinder

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model: Susan Dittrich

photos: Lisa Valentino

by Susan Dittrich

One afternoon while enjoying my usual cup of coffee at a local cafe, a woman walked in wearing a beautiful calf-length gored skirt and sat down at the table next to mine.

I immediately pulled out my notebook and made sketches of a similar style skirt. Except, why not shorten it a few inches, knit it from side to side incorporating short rows, add applied I-cord to separate each panel, and finish it off with a bit of elastic at the waist?

I went on a hunt for the perfect yarn. It shouldn’t be too chunky or the skirt may develop the “saggy baggy butt” syndrome. It should be an animal fiber to give it warmth and some natural elasticity. And it should be easy to care for. I found a sport weight superwash merino wool that is soft and supple. This skirt is sure to keep you toasty on cool fall days.

The short rows give it a subtle flare at the bottom. The beauty of this skirt is that it can be dressed up or down, depending on the situation.

The skirt shown in the photo is size small on a 35-inch hip. Because of the natural elasticity of the merino and stockinette stitch, the skirt will be form fitting around the hips.

SIZE

XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X] (shown in size S)
To fit hip circumference: 31[35, 39, 43, 47, 51, 55] inches

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Waist circumference (before elastic insertion): 22.5[26.5, 31, 35.25, 39.5, 43.75, 48] inches
Hip circumference: 29.5[34, 38.5, 43, 47.5, 52, 56.5] inches
Length: 19.5[20.25, 21, 21.75, 22.5, 23.25, 24] inches

MATERIALS

Louet Gems Sport Weight [100% merino wool; 225yd/206m per 100g skein]; color: #52 Grape; 3[3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6] skeins

Recommended needle size:

1 US #3/3.25 mm circular needle, 24 inches or longer
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]

Waste yarn

Crochet hook

Row counter and stitch markers [optional]

1 spare circular needle, US #3/3.25mm or smaller, 24 inches or longer

1 package waistband elastic, 0.75 inch wide

Sewing needle and thread

GAUGE

21.5 sts/30 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Note: Because the skirt is knit sideways, the row gauge determines the skirt’s circumference. Be sure to use a needle size that will give you the correct row gauge.

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here].

SKP: Sl 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over st just knit.

Instructions for the Backward Loop Cast On can be found here.
Instructions for grafting can be found here.

Crochet Cast On
Using waste yarn, work a crochet chain several sts longer than the number of sts to be cast on. Starting 1 or 2 sts in from end of chain and using working yarn, pick up and k 1 st in the back loop of each st until the required number of sts have been worked. Later, the chain will be unraveled and the resulting live sts picked up.

Wrap & Turn [W&T] – used when working short rows
Knit to point specified in pattern, bring yarn to front of work between needles, slip next stitch to right-hand needle, bring yarn around this stitch to back of work, slip stitch back to left-hand needle, turn work to begin purling back in the other direction.

Working Wraps Together with Wrapped Stitches
When working rows which follow short rows, work the "wraps" at the turning points of the short rows, together with the stitches they wrap, as follows:
Knit to wrapped stitch. Slip next stitch from left needle to right needle, use tip of left needle to pick up "wrap" and place it on right needle, insert left needle into both wrap and stitch, and knit them together.

DIRECTIONS

Using Crochet Cast On, CO 111[115, 119, 123, 127, 131, 135] sts.

NOTE: When working a stitch which has been wrapped on the previous row or short row, work the wrap together with the stitch it had wrapped.

You may find it helpful to place stitch markers at the short row intervals for your size.

Beginning of Gore:
Row 1 [WS]: P all sts.
Row 2 [RS]: K all sts.
Row 3 [WS]: P all sts.
Row 4 [RS]: K10, W&T.
Row 5 [WS]: P to end.
Row 6 [RS]: K all sts.
Row 7 [WS]: P all sts.
Row 8 [RS]: K30, W&T.
Row 9 [WS]: P to end.
Row 10 [RS]: K all sts.
Row 11 [WS]: P all sts.
Row 12 [RS]: K50, W&T.
Row 13 [WS]: P to end.
Row 14 [RS]: K all sts.
Row 15 [WS]: P all sts.

Center of Gore:
Note: Center of gore is different for each size. Once you have worked this section for your size, proceed to “End of Gore”.

Size XS Only:
Row 1 [RS]: K71, W&T.
Row 2 [WS]: P to end.
Rows 3-4: Work in stockinette st.
Row 5 [RS]: K91, W&T.
Row 6 [WS]: P to end.
Row 7 [RS]: K101, W&T.
Row 8 [WS]: P to end.
Rows 9-10: Work as for Rows 5-6.
Rows 11-12: Work in stockinette st.
Rows 13-14: Work as for Rows 1-2.

Size S Only:
Row 1 [RS]: K75, W&T.
Row 2 [WS]: P to end.
Rows 3-4: Work in stockinette st.
Row 5 [RS]: K95, W&T.
Row 6 [WS]: P to end.
Rows 7-8: Work in stockinette st.
Row 9 [RS]: 105, W&T.
Row 10 [WS]: P to end.
Rows 11-12: Work in stockinette st.
Rows 13-16: Work as for Rows 5-8.
Rows 17-18: Work as for Rows 1-2.

Size M Only:
Row 1 [RS]: K79, W&T.
Row 2 [WS]: P to end.
Rows 3-4: Work in stockinette st.
Row 5 [RS]: K99, W&T.
Row 6 [WS]: P to end.
Rows 7-10: Work in stockinette st.
Row 11 [RS]: K109, W&T.
Row 12 [WS]: P to end.
Rows 13-16: Work in stockinette st.
Rows 17-18: Work as for Rows 5-6.
Rows 19-20: Work in stockinette st.
Rows 21-22: Work as for Rows 1-2.

Size L Only:
Row 1 [RS]: K83, W&T.
Row 2 [WS]: P to end.
Rows 3-6: Work in stockinette st.
Row 7 [RS]: K103, W&T.
Row 8 [WS]: P to end.
Rows 9-12: Work in stockinette st.
Row 13 [RS]: K113,W&T.
Row 14 [WS]: P to end.
Rows 15-18: Work in stockinette st.
Rows 19-24: Work as for Rows 7-12.
Rows 25-26: Work as for Rows 1-2.

Size 1X Only:
Row 1 [RS]: K70, W&T.
Row 2 [WS]: P to end.
Rows 3-4: Work in stockinette st.
Row 5 [RS]: K87, W&T.
Row 6 [WS]: P to end.
Row 7-10: Work in stockinette st.
Row 11 [RS]: K107, W&T.
Row 12 [WS]: P to end.
Row 13-16: Work in stockinette st.
Row 17 [RS]: K117, W&T.
Row 18 [WS]: P to end.
Row 19-22: Work in stockinette st.
Row 23-28: Work as for Rows 11-16.
Rows 29-30: Work as for Rows 5-6.
Rows 31-32: Work in stockinette st.
Rows 33-34: Work as for Rows 1-2.

Size 2X Only:
Row 1 [RS]: K70, W&T.
Row 2 [WS]: P to end.
Rows 3-6: Work in stockinette st.
Row 7 [RS]: K91, W&T.
Row 8 [WS]: P to end.
Rows 9-12: Work in stockinette st.
Row 13 [RS]: K111, W&T.
Row 14 [WS]: P to end.
Rows 15-18: Work in stockinette st.
Row 19 [RS]: K121, W&T.
Row 20 [WS]: P to end.
Rows 21-24: Work in stockinette st.
Rows 25-30: Work as for Rows 13-18.
Rows 31-36: Work as for Rows 7-12.
Rows 37-38: Work as for Rows 1-2.

Size 3X Only:
Row 1 [RS]: K all sts.
Row 2 [WS]: P all sts.
Row 3 [RS]: K70, W&T.
Row 4 [WS]: P to end.
Rows 5-8: Work in stockinette st.
Row 9 [RS]: K95, W&T.
Row 10 [WS]: P to end.
Rows 11-14: Work in stockinette st.
Row 15 [RS]: K115, W&T.
Row 16 [WS]: P to end.
Rows 17-20: Work in stockinette st.
Row 21 [RS]: K125, W&T.
Row 22 [WS]: P to end.
Rows 23-26: Work in stockinette st.
Rows 27-32: Work as for Rows 15-20.
Rows 33-38: Work as for Rows 9-14.
Rows 39-42: Work as for Rows 3-6.

End of Gore:
Row 1 [RS]: K all sts.
Row 2 [WS]: P all sts.
Row 3 [RS]: K50, W&T.
Row 4 [WS]: P to end.
Row 5 [RS]: K all sts.
Row 6 [WS]: P all sts.
Row 7 [RS]: K30, W&T.
Row 8 [WS]: P to end.
Row 9 [RS]: K all sts.
Row 10 [WS]: P all sts.
Row 11 [RS]: K10, W&T.
Row 12 [WS]: P to end.
Row 13 [RS]: K all sts.
Row 14 [WS]: P all sts.

Applied I-Cord:
With RS of work facing and using backward loop method, CO 3 sts onto left needle. (Cast these new sts on in addition to sts already on needle.) K these 3 sts, then slip them back to left needle.
Next Row: K2, SKP. (Last I-Cord st has been passed over first skirt panel st on needle.) Slip the 3 sts just worked back to left needle and bring yarn around back of work, ready to begin working next row.
Repeat this row until 9 sts remain on left needle, including sts of I-Cord.
Next Row [RS] K4tog, k to end. 6 sts.
Next Row [WS]: P6; pick up and p 105[109, 113, 117, 121, 125, 129] sts (1 st in each row) along I-Cord. Pick up sts close to last row of gore, so that I-Cord forms a ridge on RS of fabric. 111[115, 119, 123, 127, 131, 135] sts.

Work 7 more gores in the same way; do not work Applied I-Cord at end of last (8th) gore.

Join Skirt:
Carefully remove waste yarn from CO edge and place resulting live sts on spare needle.
Hold sts on spare needle behind sts on working needle, with RS of sts on working needle facing. Working needle will be referred to as “front needle”, spare needle as “back needle”.

Three Needle I-Cord Bind Off:
Use backward loop method to CO 3 sts onto front left needle. K these 3 sts, then return them to front left needle.
Next Row: K2, sl 1 knitwise, k next st on front needle tog with next st on back needle, pass slipped st over. Return the 3 sts just worked to left needle and bring yarn around back of work, ready to begin working next row.
Repeat this row until 9 sts remain on left needle, including sts of I-Cord. K4tog, then return this st to front needle; 6 sts remain on each needle.

Graft sts on front needle to sts on back needle.

FINISHING

Weave in ends. Block to measurements shown in schematic.

Waistband:
Wrap elastic snugly but comfortably around waist, overlapping and pinning together. Try slipping it on and off over your hips to ensure that it’s not too tight or too loose. Trim elastic, leaving an overlap of approx. 1 inch. Sew ends securely together.

Turn skirt inside out and fold upper edge to WS to form elastic casing, with fold at upper edge of I-Cords (see photo). Insert elastic into casing and sew edge of casing in place, being careful not to sew too tightly.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Susan lives in Pittsburgh, PA with her husband. She does the majority of her knitting sitting in coffee shops or on her bus commute to work. She is the founder of the Shadyside Stitch ‘N Bitch, now in its 2nd year.

Visit her blog.