DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Rosalinde

Knitted DROPS fitted jacket with lace pattern and cables in ”Muskat”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 148-2
DROPS design: Pattern no r-623
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-88-98-106-126-134 cm /
31½"-34½"-38½"-41 3/4"-49½"-52 3/4"
Full length: 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm /
26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''

Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
600-650-700-800-850-950 g color no 18, white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 4 mm / US 6 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 28 rows pattern according to A.1 + A.4 = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 521: 9 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 K rows.

GARTER ST (in the round on double pointed needles):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Diagrams show all rows/rounds in pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec in each side on section in stockinette st in both sides on body as follows: Slip 1st st as if to K, K 1, psso, work in stockinette st until 2 sts remain, K 2 tog (= 2 sts dec).

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next row work YOs twisted to avoid holes (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front).

BUTTONHOLE:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from mid front and make 1 YO. Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 8, 14, 20, 26, 32, 38, 44, 50 and 56 cm /
3 1/8",5½",8",10¼",12½",15",17¼",19¾" and 22"
SIZE M: 8, 15, 22, 28, 34, 40, 46, 52 and 58 cm /
3 1/8",6",8¾",11",13 3/8",15¾",18",20½" and 22¾"
SIZE L: 8, 14, 21, 27, 34, 40, 47, 53 and 60 cm /
3 1/8",5½",8¼",10 5/8",13 3/8",15¾",18½",21" and 23 5/8"
SIZE XL: 6, 13, 20, 27, 34, 41, 48, 55 and 62 cm /
2 3/8",5 1/8",8",10 5/8",13 3/8",16 1/8",19",21 5/8" and 24 3/8"
SIZE XXL: 8, 15, 22, 29, 36, 43, 50, 57 and 64 cm /
3 1/8",6",8¾",11 3/8",14¼",17",19¾",22½" and 25¼"
SIZE XXXL: 10, 17, 24, 31, 38, 45, 52, 59 and 66 cm /
4",6¾",9½",12¼",15",17¾",20½",23¼" and 26"
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 244-264-312-332-404-420 sts (includes 6 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Muskat. K 3 rows (1st row = WS).
Work next row as follows from RS:

SIZE S + M:
6 band sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, P 2, * A.2 (= 19 sts), A.1 (= 4 sts) *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total, P 2 and K 8-13, insert 1 marker (= side), K 8-13, P 2, ** A.1 (= 4 sts), A.2 (= 19 sts) **, repeat from **-** 4 times in total, work A.1 (= 4 sts), P 2 and K 8-13, insert 1 marker (= side), K 8-13, P 2, ** A.1 (= 4 sts), A.2 (= 19 sts) **, repeat from **-** 2 times in total and finish with P 2 and 6 band sts in GARTER ST.

SIZE L + XL:
6 band sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, P 2, A.2 (= 19 sts), * A.2 (= 19 sts), A.1 (= 4 sts) *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total, P 2 and K 6-11, insert 1 marker (= side), K 6-11, P 2, ** A.1 (= 4 sts), A.2 (= 19 sts) **, repeat from **-** 2 times in total, work A.2 (= 19 sts), A.1 (= 4 sts), A.2 (= 19 sts), * A.2 (= 19 sts), A.1 (= 4 sts) *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total, P 2 and K 6-11, insert 1 marker (= side), K 6-11, P 2, ** A.1 (= 4 sts), A.2 (= 19 sts) **, repeat from **-** 2 times in total, work A.2 (= 19 sts) and finish with P 2 and 6 band sts in GARTER ST.

Size XXL + XXXL:
6 band sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, P 2, A.2 (= 19 sts), * A.2 (= 19 sts), A.1 (= 4 sts) *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, P 2 and K 6-10, insert 1 marker (= side), K 6-10, P 2, ** A.1 (= 4 sts), A.2 (= 19 sts) **, repeat from **-** 3 times in total, work A.2 (= 19 sts), A.1 (= 4 sts), A.2 (= 19 sts), * A.2 (= 19 sts), A.1 (= 4 sts) *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, P 2 and K 6-10, insert 1 marker (= side), K 6-10, P 2, ** A.1 (= 4 sts), A.2 (= 19 sts) **, repeat from **-** 3 times in total, work A.2 (= 19 sts) and finish with P 2 and 6 band sts in GARTER ST.

ALL SIZES - READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Continue pattern like this (from WS work K over K and P over P). REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', (make sure that next row is worked from RS), dec 1 st in each side on body (i.e. at the edge in each side on both sections in stockinette st with markers) – READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every 8 cm / 3 1/8'' 3 more times (= 4 dec in total – after last dec 8-18-4-14-4-12 sts in stockinette st remain in each side, i.e. 4-9-2-7-2-6 sts on each side of both markers).
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 8-8-8-6-8-10 cm / 3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-2 3/8"-3 1/8"-4", beg dec for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above.
After diagram A.2 continue with diagram A.3 (instead of A.2 - work the other sts as before).
After all dec in the sides and in A.3, 164-184-200-220-260-276 sts remain on needle and piece measures approx. 32 cm / 12½''. Then continue as before but work pattern according to diagram A.4 instead of A.3.

When piece measures approx. 40 cm / 15 3/4'' in all sizes (make sure that next row is worked from RS), inc as follows:
ALL SIZES:
Inc 1 st on the right side of every cable (i.e. in every other P-section with 2 P sts seen from RS) – READ INCREASE TIP (= 9-9-9-9-13-13 sts inc). When piece measures 42-42-42-42-43-43 cm / 16½"-16½"-16½"-16½"-17"-17", inc 1 st on the left side of every cable (i.e. in the remaining P-sections with 2 P sts = 9-9-9-9-13-13 sts inc).
Repeat inc on the right side of every cable (i.e. in every other P-section with 3 P sts) when piece measures 44-44-44-44-46-46 cm / 17 1/4"-17 1/4"-17 1/4"-17 1/4"-18"-18" and on the left side of every cable (i.e. in the remaining P-sections with 3 P sts) when piece measures 46-46-46-46-49-49 cm / 18"-18"-18"-18"-19 1/4"-19 1/4".
SIZE L + XL (only applies to these 2 sizes):
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 42 cm / 16½'', inc 1 st on each side of marker in each side - READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc when piece measures 46 cm / 18''.
ALL SIZES:
When all inc are done there are 200-220-244-264-312-328 sts in total on needle. Continue pattern.
When piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm / 18½''-19''-19¼''-19¾''-20''-20½'', work next row from RS as follows: Work 48-52-59-63-74-77 sts as before (= right front piece), bind off 8-10-8-10-12-14 sts for armhole, work 88-96-110-118-140-146 sts as before (= back piece), bind off 8-10-8-10-12-14 sts for armhole and work the last 48-52-59-63-74-77 sts as before (= left front piece).
Finish each part separately.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 48-52-59-63-74-77 sts. Continue pattern as before (1st row = WS). Then bind off for armhole at beg of every row from RS: 2 sts 1-2-1-2-6-7 times and 1 st 1-3-1-3-6-7 times = 45-45-56-56-56-56 sts.
When piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26'', slip the outermost 12-12-15-15-15-15 sts towards mid front on 1 stitch holder for neck (work them before slipping them on the stitch holder).
Continue to bind off for neck at beg of every row from WS: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 4 times - NOTE: Work sts that do not fit the pattern in stockinette st when casting/binding off for neck.
After all bind offs for armhole and neck, 25-25-33-33-33-33 sts remain on shoulder.
Continue pattern as before with 1 edge st in garter st in each side until piece measures approx. 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''- stop after 1 whole repetition with A.4 vertically, bind off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work as left front piece but reversed, i.e. when casting/binding off for armholes, bind off at beg of every row from WS (instead of RS) and bind off for neck at beg of every row from RS (instead of WS) – NOTE: When slipping sts on 1 stitch holder for neck, make sure that 1 row has been worked from WS after last buttonhole before slipping sts on stitch holder.

BACK PIECE:
= 88-96-110-118-140-146 sts. Continue to bind off for armholes at beg of every row in each side as on front piece = 82-82-104-104-104-104 sts. Continue pattern as before with 1 edge st in garter st in each side.
When piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm / 25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8'', bind off the middle 30-30-36-36-36-36 sts for neck.
Continue to bind off 1 st on next row from neck = 25-25-33-33-33-33 sts remain on the shoulder.
Continue pattern with 1 edge st in garter st in each side until back piece is the same length as front piece, bind off.
Repeat on the other shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles, switch to circular needle when needed.
Cast on 51-51-68-68-85-85 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 with Muskat.
Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST in the round on double pointed needles - see explanation above! Work next round as follows: * Work A.1 (= 4 sts), work A.5 (= 13 sts) *, repeat from *-* 3-3-4-4-5-5 times in total.
Continue pattern like this upwards. When A.5 has been worked, 45-45-60-60-75-75 sts remain on needle and piece measures approx. 9 cm / 3½''.
Now continue pattern but work A.6 instead of A.5 until finished measurements (work the other sts as before).
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 11-11-10-12-12-12 cm / 4 3/8"-4 3/8"-4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4", inc 1 st on each side of A.1 at beg of round (inc by making 1 YO which is worked P twisted on next round).
Repeat inc every 2½-2-3-2-2½-2 cm / 7/8"-3/4"-1 1/8"-3/4"-7/8"-3/4" 14-17-12-16-12-14 more times (= 15-18-13-17-13-15 inc in total) = 75-81-86-94-101-105 sts – NOTE: Work the first 4 sts inc in each side in A.1, work the next 11-11-9-11-9-11 sts in A.6 and P the remaining 0-3-0-2-0-0 sts.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
When piece measures 49-49-48-48-45-44 cm / 19 1/4"-19 1/4"-19"-19"-17 3/4"-17 1/4" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), bind off 8-10-8-10-12-14 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. bind off A.1 and 2-3-2-3-4-5 sts on each side of A.1), finish the sleeve working back and forth on needle.
Then bind off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side as follows: bind off 2 sts 3-4-3-4-4-4 times and 1 st 3-3-2-2-7-10 times, then bind off 2 sts in each side until piece measures approx. 56-57-54-55-56-57 cm / 22"-22½"-21 1/4"-21 5/8"-22"-22½" – stop after 1 whole repetition with A.6 vertically.
Then bind off the remaining sts, piece measures approx. 57-58-55-56-57-58 cm / 22½"-22 3/4"-21 5/8"-22"-22½"-22 3/4".
Make another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew the sleeves inside 1 edge st.
Sew on buttons. Steam the garment to make it hang nicely.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up approx. 90 to 110 sts around the neck (includes sts on stitch holders at the front) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6.
K 3 rows and bind off with K from RS.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 07.04.2014
New text under BODY/ALL SIZES - READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!.... beg dec for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above.
After diagram A.2 continue with diagram A.3 (instead of A.2 - work the other sts as before). After all dec in the sides and in A.3, 164-184-200-220-260-276 sts remain ....
+
New diagram A.2

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = P 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (96)

country flag MARIA DANIELSSON wrote:

När man gör ökningen för ärmen hur kan man "sticka in" de extra maskorna i A1 och A6? A6 har 11 maskor och A1 har 4 - så hur ska man få in fler i dem? Det blir ju helknasigt...

18.06.2023 - 17:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Maria. I f.eks str. S skal det økes med 30 masker på hver 2,5 cm. Det økes på hver side av A.1 kun på begynnelsen av omgangen (A.1 er midt under ermet). De 4 første maskene som økes i hver side strikkes fortløpende inn i A.1. Da vil A.1 bestå av 12 masker etter 7,5 cm, husk fletten i A.1 ligger over i hverandre (de økte maskene er på hver side av A.1 og strikkes rett). De neste økte maske (det økes 2 masker pr omgang på hver 2,5 cm 11 ganger i hver side) strikkes fortløpende inn i A.6 (vrang). mvh DROPS Design

19.06.2023 - 11:47

country flag Monika wrote:

Witam :) jak wykończyć dekolt? nie jest to opisane, a na zdjęciu niezbyt dokładnie widać. chodzi mi o to ile rzędów i jakim ściegiem, ewentualnie czy jest jakaś specjalna technika dekoltowa. wybaczcie, zrobiłam w życiu mało swetrów, więc wykańczanie dekoltu jeszcze nie jest dla mnie oczywiste ;)

06.10.2022 - 21:33

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Moniko, to mi umknęło tłumaczenie ostatniego akapitu. Jest to już uzupełnione na stronie. W razie pytań śmiało pisz. Miłej pracy!

07.10.2022 - 09:26

country flag Della Pietra Teresa wrote:

Solitamente porto la taglia m ho fatto altre vostre maglie la misura è sempre stata esatta . In questo caso però ho come girovita una XXL e come giro seno una L . Come mi devo comportare visto che a me sembra stranissima questa cosa perché io ho un girovita segnato . Grazie

01.02.2022 - 18:42

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Teresa, questo modello è stato progettato per essere molto aderente, per cui non ha l'agio che di solito hanno quasi tutti gli altri modelli DROPS. Buon lavoro!

01.02.2022 - 22:07

country flag Monika wrote:

Witam.Szerokość dekoltu w centymetrach jest podana dosyć niewielka,tutaj 13 cm,w Brume 16,ale na modelce w obu wypadkach dekolt jest pięknie szeroki.Brume już zrobiłam i wiem,że dekolt wyszedł zgodny z pomiarem we wzorze-16 cm,nie ze zdjęciem na modelce.Czy tutaj będzie tak samo że wyjdzie mi taki mały dekolt,13cm?Jeśli tak, to czemu na zdjęciu jest pokazane co innego i jak osiągnąć taki efekt?

21.04.2020 - 16:52

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Moniko, o jaki dekolt chodzi, z przodu czy z tyłu? Czy mierzysz długość wzdłuż brzegu robótki? Te 13-16 cm na dekolcie tyłu (podane na schematycznym rysunku na dole wzoru), jest to wymiar na długość (w prostej linii, od rogu do rogu dekoltu), wzdłuż brzegu dekoltu (po skosie) ten wymiar będzie szerszy. Pozdrawiamy

22.04.2020 - 16:03

country flag Beatriz Garcia wrote:

Me gustan mucho los modelos de Drops aparte muy bien explicados ya casi terminando este diseño de Rosalinda solo me falta el cuello después de 5 años jajajaja que lo tejía y lo dejaba pero al fin lo estoy terminando Gracias por compartir los patrones Yam hermosos

22.01.2020 - 03:22

country flag Daniela wrote:

Buonasera. Sto eseguendo il modello Rosalinde n° r-623. Il modello è stato corretto. Nella correzione viene citato un nuovo diagramma A.2, ma fra i diagrammi compare un solo A.2. Ora non so come proseguire perché il diagramma indicato contiene 19 maglie, mentre con il motivo A.3 sono a 11 maglie. Cosa intendete con la correzione? Grazie

04.01.2019 - 19:02

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Daniela. Quando vengono corretti i diagrammi, trova solo il diagramma aggiornato. Non è stato modificato il numero delle maglie del diagramma. Il diagramma A2 si lavora su 19 m, il diagramma A3 inizia con 19 m e finisce con 11 m e va lavorato sopra al diagramma A2. Buon lavoro!

04.01.2019 - 19:25

country flag Anya Roeling wrote:

Het meerderen in de mouw is voor mij nog onduidelijk. Er moet aan beide zijden van A1 gemeerderd worden. A1 is de kabel. Als ik het patroon zo lees dan zou aan beide zijden van de \"originele\" kabel de gemeerderde kabels moeten verschijnen. Op de foto lijkt het er op dat de gemeerderde kabels allebei ná de originele kabel komen te liggen. Maar ik moet ook toegeven dat de foto niet heel echt duidelijk dat ene detail weergeeft.

30.11.2018 - 16:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Anya,

Je meerdert voor en na de eerste A.1 en zodra je 4 steken gemeerderd hebt, brei je die gemeerderde steken in A.1, dus dan heb je 3x A.1 naast elkaar. Daarna, als je weer genoeg hebt gemeerderd, brei je die in A.6 aan beide kanten.

04.12.2018 - 13:38

country flag Sally wrote:

Please can you explain ‘from WS work k over k and p over p’ . Does this mean that it will be stocking stitch. And is every row worked from the chart or just the RS rows?

24.05.2018 - 21:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sally, from WS you will work as follows: K the 6 sts in garter st on each side, and work K over K and P over P the sts in diagrams (the P2 from RS for example will be worked K2 from WS) - work the WS rows in pattern as shown in diagram (read from left towards right from WS). Happy knitting!

25.05.2018 - 09:13

country flag Sigrun Antonsen wrote:

Drops mønster 148-2 Jeg har strikket i mange år og ulike mønstre uten problem, men her er det noe jeg ikke forstår. For størrelse L+XL står det at det skal strikkes ............6-11 rett, sette 1 merketråd (= siden), strikk 6-11 rett..... Hva mens med det? Er det antall masker etter størrelsen? For størrelse S+M står det 8-13. Jeg har snakket med personalet i butikken, men de forstod det heller ikke. Jeg er enig med de so etterlyser tydeligere bilder av mønsteret.

27.03.2016 - 13:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Sigrun, Jo det er antal masker for hver af de to størrelser som er med under "L + XL". Det vil sige at hvis du strikker L skal du strikke 6 rett osv. Markere gerne i opskriften så du hele tiden følger din størrelse! God fornøjelse!

31.03.2016 - 12:15

country flag Michela wrote:

Guten Tag, ich habe die Maschenprobe mit der Nadelstärke 4 und 3 1/2 gestrickt und jedes Mal beträgt die Maschenzahl um 10 x10 cm zu erlangen weinger als in der Anleitung aufgeführt. Woran kann dies liegen und wie müsste ich die korrekt Maschenzahl ausrechnen, die ich allenfalls benötigen würde? Herzlichen Dank für die Antwort, Michela

09.03.2016 - 08:15

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Michaela, das könnte daran liegen, dass Sie etwas lockerer stricken als unser Standardmass. Versuchen Sie es lieber nochmals mit einer noch dünneren Nadel statt das Muster umzurechnen. Diese Anleitung eignet sich nicht gut zum umrechnen.

09.03.2016 - 08:53