DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Linda Cardigan

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern in ”Brushed Alpaca Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 154-22
DROPS design: Pattern no as-014
Yarn group C or A + A
-----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Bust: 90-96-106-116-126-140 cm / 35½"-37 3/4"-41 3/4"-45 3/4"-49½"-55"
Full length: 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm / 19''-19¾''-20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''
Materials:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
100-100-125-125-150-150 g color no 01, off white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 8 mm / US 11 - or size needed to get 12 sts x 17 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 522: 6-6-6-7-7-7 pieces

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.4. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

BUTTONHOLES:
bind off for buttonholes on right band. 1 button hole = bind off 4th st from mid front. On next row cast on 1 new st over the bind off st. Bind off for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 9, 15, 21, 27, 33 and 39 cm / 3½",6",8 1/4",10 5/8",13",15 1/4"
SIZE M: 11, 17, 23, 29, 35 and 41 cm / 4 3/8",6 1/4",9",11 3/8",13 3/4",16 1/8"
SIZE L: 7, 14, 21, 28, 35 and 42 cm / 2 3/4",5½",8 1/4",11",13 3/4",16½"
SIZE XL: 8, 14, 20, 26, 32, 38 and 44 cm / 3 1/8",5½",8",10 1/4",12½",15",17 1/4"
SIZE XXL: 9, 15, 21, 27, 33, 39 and 45 cm / 3½",6",8 1/4",10 5/8",13",15 1/4",17 3/4"
SIZE XXXL: 5, 12, 19, 26, 33, 40 and 47 cm / 2",4 3/4",7½",10 1/4",13",15 3/4",18½"
----------------------------------------------------------

BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 116-124-136-148-160-176 sts (includes 4 band sts in each side) on circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 with Brushed Alpaca Silk. Work as follows from RS: A.1 (= 10 sts), K 96-104-116-128-140-156, finish with A.2 (= 10 sts). On next row (= WS) work as follows: A.2 over the first 10 sts, P 96-104-116-128-140-156, A.1 over the last 10 sts. Repeat these 2 rows upwards. Remember BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above. When piece measures 27-28-29-30-31-32 cm / 10½"-11"-11½"-11 3/4"-12 1/4"-12½" (adjust so that next row is from RS), insert 2 markers in the piece AT THE SAME TIME work from RS as follows: A.1 over the first 10 sts as before, stockinette st over the next 15-17-20-23-26-30 sts, A.3 (= 5 sts), 1 st in stockinette st (= right front piece), insert 1 marker (= mid under sleeve), 1 st in stockinette st, A.4 (= 5 sts), stockinette st over the next 42-46-52-58-64-72 sts, A.3 (= 5 sts), 1 st in stockinette st (= back piece), insert 1 marker (= mid under sleeve), 1 st in stockinette st, A.4 (= 5 sts), stockinette st over the next 15-17-20-23-26-30 sts, finish with A.2 over the last 10 sts as before (= left front piece). Move the markers upwards when working. NOTE: A.3 and A.4 are displaced 1 st towards mid front and mid back on every row from RS. Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm / 12¼''-12½''-13''-13 3/8''-13¾''-14¼'', finish each part separately. Now divide the piece between each marker.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 31-33-36-39-42-46 sts. REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES! Continue to work A.1, in stockinette st and A.3 as before AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 40-42-43-45-46-48 cm / 15 3/4"-16½"-17"-17 3/4"-18"-19" (adjust so that next row is from RS), bind off for neck from RS as follows: bind off the first 13-13-13-14-14-14 sts, work as before over the remaining sts. Then on next row from RS, bind off 1 st from neck, repeat bind off 1 more time (= 2 times in total) = 16-18-21-23-26-30 sts remain on needle. Work as before until piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm / 19''-19¾''-20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''. Bind off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right but reversed. Work diagram A.2 and A.4 instead of A.1 and A.3. Bind off for neck at beg of row from WS.

BACK PIECE:
= 54-58-64-70-76-84 sts. Work A.3/A.4 and in stockinette st as before. When piece measures 43-45-47-49-51-53 cm / 17"-17 3/4"-18½"-19 1/4"-20"-21" (adjust so that next row is from RS), bind off for neck from RS as follows: Work 17-19-22-24-27-31 sts as before, bind off the next 20-20-20-22-22-22 sts, work 17-19-22-24-27-31 sts as before. Now finish each shoulder separately. Bind off 1 st on next row from neck = 16-18-21-23-26-30 sts. Work as before until piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm / 19''-19¾''-20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''. Bind off.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 25-26-28-28-30-31 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 with Brushed Alpaca Silk. Continue in stockinette with 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above - in each side of piece. When piece measures 12-7-7-11-10-10 cm / 4 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-4½"-4"-4'', inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in garter st in each side of piece, repeat inc in each side of piece inside 1 edge st in garter st every 4-4-4-3-3-2½ cm / ½"-1½"-1½"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-7/8" 8-9-9-10-10-11 more times (= 9-10-10-11-11-12 times in total) = 43-46-48-50-52-55 sts on needle. Bind off when piece measures 48½-48-46½-45-43½-41 cm / 19"-19"-18"-17 3/4"-17"-16 1/8". Make another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew the sleeve seams inside 1 edge st. Sew in sleeves. Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

NECK EDGE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Pick up 60-70 sts around the neck on circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 with Brushed Alpaca Silk. Work 2 ridges. Bind off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K 3 tog
symbols = K 3 twisted tog
symbols = 2 YO between 2 sts, on next row P 1st YO, drop 2nd YO off the needle
symbols = 2 YO between 2 sts, on next row slip 1st YO as if to P, P 1 (= 2nd YO), psso
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle in front of piece, K 1, K 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = 2 YO between 2 sts, on next row (WS) P 1st YO and P 2nd YO twisted.
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 154-22

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (29)

country flag Patricia Venanzi wrote:

Hola, confío en sus muy buenos patrones. . En este caso no, hoy, 16/01/20. Desde 2015 hay preguntas sobre los esquemas A1 y A2, pero no lo habéis modificado. La pasada del revés no es clara y hay que "bucear" en preguntas de otras tejedoras desesperadas para descubrir la solución. El vídeo de dos hebras no ayuda, porque solo teje una y suelta la segunda, que no es tejer un revés y un revés retorcido. Se debe modificar el texto. Gracias.

16.01.2020 - 13:08

country flag Paula wrote:

Is this pattern knitted with one or two strand of yarn?

16.05.2019 - 07:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Paula, this jacket is worked loosely with only 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk - make sure to check your tension: 12 sts x 17 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm. Happy knitting!

16.05.2019 - 10:18

country flag Mascha wrote:

Hallo, in het patroon staat dat in ribbelsteek gebreid wordt. Op het plaatje lijkt in tricotsteek gebreid te zijn. Wat is nu juist? En stel dat ik zelf voor tricotsteek zou kiezen, kom ik dan in de problemen in het telpatroon? Dank alvast!

27.02.2019 - 15:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Mascha

Het werk wordt inderdaad in tricotsteek gebreid i.c.m. de telpatronen. Bij de beschrijving van het lijf is dat ook aangegeven (heengaande naald de telpatronen plus recht, teruggaande naald telpatronen plus averecht. Volgens mij wordt alleen ergens in de mouw ribbelsteek gebruikt.

27.02.2019 - 19:16

country flag Renata wrote:

Witam, w opisie wykonania przodu i tyłu jest mowa o formowaniu podkroju rękawa a powinno być wpisane formowanie dekoltu.

22.01.2018 - 15:07

country flag Elena wrote:

Vorrei un chiarimento. Cosa significa che A3 eA4 sono spostati di una maglia verso il centro davanti e il centro dietro su ogni ferro dal diritto del lavoro. Cioè devo lavorare a maglia rasata 14 maglie, poi 13, poi 12 e così via per il davanti. Per il dietro 41 poi 40 poi 39 .... non so se ho interpretato bene. Datemi cortesemente un aiuto. Grazie

25.01.2016 - 11:02

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Elena. Sì, deve lavorare 1 m a maglia rasata in meno su ognuno dei due davanti, e due maglie in meno sul dietro (1 vicino alla manica destra e una vicino alla manica sinistra). Ci riscriva se ancora in difficoltà. Buon lavoro!

25.01.2016 - 21:58

country flag Ingvill wrote:

Hei, eg ser at fleire har spurt om dette, men google translate gir meg ikkje godt nok svar: Når eg skal strikke diagram a1 og a2 frå vrangen, korleis gjer eg det då når eg kjem til dobbeltkastet? Forsøk på å strikke det på vanlig måte gjer berre at eg ender opp med to kast på pinnen, og det ser feil ut ift biletet. Skal eg strikke dei vridd?

14.08.2015 - 19:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ingvill, det er 3 forskellige dobbeltkast, de dobbeltkast du strikker i A.1 og A.2 skal strikkes vrang på næste pind så du ikke får færre antal masker på pinden. Vi skal lave en bedre diagramforklaring og lægge ud på opskriften. Tak for dit tips!

04.09.2015 - 09:11

country flag Bernardi wrote:

Bonsoir, dans le diagramme A1et A2 on fait un double jeté. Je voudrais savoir au rang suivant donc sur l'envers, comment tricoter ces deux mailles. Merci de me répondre.

28.04.2015 - 23:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bernardi, votre question a été transmise à nos stylistes. Merci d'avance pour votre patience.

18.05.2015 - 10:40

country flag Bernardi wrote:

A nouveau bonjour, dans le diagramme A1 et A2 il faut faire 2 jetés entre 2 mailles, le rang suivant je les tricote comment ? A l'endroit ou à l'envers ou autrement ? Encore merci

26.04.2015 - 18:09

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bernardi, dans le diagramme 1 case = 1 m x 1 rang, au 2ème rang de A.1/A.2, tricotez les mailles comme elles se présentent (1 case blanche = jersey end = à l'env sur l'env et 1 croix = jersey env = à l'end sur l'env). Bon tricot!

27.04.2015 - 11:30

country flag Bernardi wrote:

Bonjour, je vais tricoter la taille M.. si j'ai bien compris, je compte les mailles des deux bordures devant en plus, soit 8 mailles; ce qui me fait monter 132 mailles en tout et non pas 124 ? vous remerciant de me répondre

26.04.2015 - 17:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bernardi, toutes les mailles sont comprises dans le nombre à monter, soit 124 m en taille M à tricoter ainsi au 1er rang: 10 m de A.1, 104 m end, 10 m de A.2. Bon tricot!

27.04.2015 - 11:24

country flag Daniela wrote:

La ringrazio infinitamente! Buona giornata!

26.01.2015 - 12:50