Augusta

Knitted DROPS jacket with short sleeves and Norwegian pattern in BabyAlpaca Silk or Flora. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 142-18
DROPS design: Pattern no BS-022
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-92-102-112-124-138 cm /
33"-36"-40"-44"-49"-54"
Full length: 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm /
19''-19¾''-20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''

Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
200-200-250-250-300-300 g color no 6347, blue purple
50 g for all sizes in the following colors:
color no 0100, off white
color no 4314, gray purple
color no 8903, black

Or use:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio
150-150-200-200-250-250g colour no 13, denim blue
50 g for all sizes in the following colours:
colour no 01, natur
colour no 09, amethyst
colour no 06, black

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 2.5 mm /US 1.5 - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 2 mm / US 0 - for rib.

DROPS ANGULAR SILVER BUTTONS NO 534: 6-6-6-7-7-7 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K sts on all rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Work entire pattern in stockinette st.

KNITTING TIP 1:
When A.2 is worked, there will be 1 st at the end of row that do not fit the pattern. This st is worked in the pattern as first st in next repetition so that the pattern beg and ends the same way in each side towards mid front. NOTE: Do not dec in this st.

KNITTING TIP 2:
To avoid the garment loosing its elasticity when working pattern it is important that the threads are not too tight on the back of piece. If needed go up in needle size when working pattern if the pattern looks somewhat tight.
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 252-280-312-344-384-428 sts on circular needle size 2 mm/US 0 with blue purple. P 1 row from WS, work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above - * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain and finish with K 2 and 1 edge st in GARTER ST.
Continue rib like this for 4 cm / 1½'' – adjust so that next row is worked from RS.
Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 49-53-61-69-77-81 sts evenly = 203-227-251-275-307-347 sts.
Work next row as follows from WS: 1 edge st in garter st, work diagram A.1 until 2 sts remain, finish with 1st st in A.1 (so that pattern beg and ends the same way in each side towards mid front) and 1 edge st in garter st.
Continue the pattern like this. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue in stockinette st with blue purple. Insert 2 markers in the piece; 51-57-63-69-77-87 sts in from each side (= 101-113-125-137-153-173 sts between markers on back piece). REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', inc 1 st on each side of both markers (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm / 2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2¾''-2¾''-2¾'' 3 more times = 219-243-267-291-323-363 sts.
When piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm / 11¾''-12¼''-12½''-13''-13 3/8''-13¾'', bind off 8 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. 4 sts on each side of both markers) = 51-57-63-69-77-87 sts on each front piece and 101-113-125-137-153-173 sts on back piece.
Put piece aside and work the sleeve edges.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 84-88-96-100-104-112 sts on double pointed needles size 2 mm / US 0 with blue purple.
K 1 round, then work rib (= K 2/P 2) for 4 cm / 1½''. Work next round as follows: bind off 4 sts at beg of round, K until 4 sts remain and bind off these 4 sts = 76-80-88-92-96-104 sts.
Put piece aside and knit another sleeve edge.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bind off = 355-387-427-459-499-555 sts. Work 2-2-4-4-4-6 rows in stockinette st with blue purple (1st row = RS), AT THE SAME TIME dec 29-27-33-31-37-42 sts evenly on last row (= from WS) = 326-360-394-428-462-513 sts.
READ KNITTING TIP 1 and 2 and work as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, work pattern according to diagram A.2 (choose diagram for correct size) until 2 sts remain, finish with 1st st in A.2 and 1 edge st in garter st.
Continue with pattern and dec until A.2 has been worked vertically (work until arrow for correct size) = 155-171-187-178-192-213 sts.

LEFT BAND:
Pick up from RS approx. 120 to 150 sts along left front piece on circular needle size 2 mm / US 0 with blue purple.
P 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 149-157-161-169-173-181 sts.
Then work rib as follows (seen from RS): 1 edge st in garter st, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 4 sts remain, finish with K 2 and 2 edge sts in garter st at the bottom of body.
When rib measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'', loosely bind off with K over K and P over P.

RIGHT BAND:
Work as left band but when band measures approx. 1 cm / 3/8'', bind off for 5-5-5-6-6-6 button holes evenly. The top and bottom button hole should be approx. 4 cm / 1½'' from edge.
1 button hole = work 2 sts tog and make 1 YO (binding off in 2 P sts will look more pretty seen from RS).

NECK EDGE:
Slip sts from yoke on circular needle size 2 mm / US 0 and in addition pick up 8 new sts over each band (pick up from RS inside 1 edge st) = 171-187-203-194-208-229 sts.
P 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 23-31-43-26-32-49 sts evenly = 148-156-160-168-176-180 sts. Continue to work rib from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain, finish with K 2 and 1 edge st in garter st.
AT THE SAME TIME after 2 rows rib, work an elevation (in rib) at the back of neck as follows: Work until 17-19-21-23-25-27 sts remain on needle, turn, tighten thread and work until 17-19-21-23-25-27 sts remain in the other side, turn, tighten thread and work until 35-39-41-45-49-53 sts remain, turn, tighten thread and work until 35-39-41-45-49-53 sts remain in the other side, turn, tighten thread and work until 53-59-61-67-73-79 sts remain, turn, tighten thread and work until 53-59-61-67-73-79 sts remain in the other side, turn.
Then continue with rib as before over all sts. AT THE SAME TIME when neck edge measures approx. 1½ cm / ½" at the front, bind off for 1 button hole over the others on right band.
When neck edge measures 4 cm / 1½'' at the front, loosely bind off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew on buttons.


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Wrist warmers and hat – see design: 142-16
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Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = off white
symbols = gray purple
symbols = blue purple
symbols = black
symbols = K 2 tog with the color currently being used (make sure that the pattern fits)
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (28)

country flag Ostrowsky Waltraud wrote:

Hallo können Sie mir bitte mitteilen wie oft und wieviel Maschen in der Endphase abgenommen werden da ich die Weste nur in einer Farbe stricke und somit keinen musterhaft mit den Abnahmen Vielen Dank

21.07.2022 - 09:14

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ostrowsky, Die Abnahmen sind in den Diagrammen mit einem schwarzen Halbdreieck gekennzeichnet. Unabhängig davon, ob Sie in einer oder vielen Farben arbeiten, werden die Abnahmen auf die gleiche Weise gestrickt.

31.07.2022 - 23:29

country flag Katarina Johansson wrote:

Rad 14 i mönster A 2 återkommer en vit ruta varannan gång i det mörka partiet. Det verkar inte stämma mot bilden på koftan?

29.01.2022 - 19:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Katarina, det stemmer, der mangler en hvid prik i diagrammet. Tak for info :)

03.02.2022 - 14:31

country flag Ilovedogs wrote:

Non trovo lo schema jacquard per il fondo del corpo prima del bordo a coste: devo ripetere lo schema A1 ? Come mai per lo sprone non sono indicati con le frecce i ferri in cui fare glia aumenti? Mi rendo conto che lo schema è stato inserito parecchio tempo fa', ma sarebbe molto utile se venisse corretto...

05.01.2022 - 09:26

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Ilovedogs, il motivo da seguire all'inizio dopo il bordo a coste è il motivo A.1. Per quanto riguarda lo sprone, gli aumenti sono lavorati all'interno di A.2. Buon lavoro!

05.01.2022 - 10:45

country flag Christel Felgendreher wrote:

Ich würde das Model Augusta 142-18 gerne von oben nach unten stricken. gibt es dafür eine ANLEITUNG ??

09.03.2020 - 21:31

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Felgendreher, siehe Antwort unten :)

10.03.2020 - 10:26

country flag Christel wrote:

Ich würde das Drops Model Augusta 142-18 gerne von oben nach unten stricken. Gibt es dafür auch eine Anleitung??

09.03.2020 - 21:25

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Christel, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jedem Wunsch umrechnen, aber hier finden Sie Jacken, die von oben nach unten gestrickt werden, davon können Sie sich sicher inspierieren. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

10.03.2020 - 10:17

country flag Pam wrote:

Hi. Thank you for your very quick response. I have done as you suggested and measured it against an existing cardigan. It is slightly smaller but it will be fine. Thanks for help. I love Drops yarn and use it for all my projects, especially colour work.

07.03.2019 - 14:44

country flag Pam Edmiston wrote:

I love knitting with Baby Alpaca Silk, probably my favourite yarn ever. I also love Augusta, very pretty little cardigan.....but the size seems wrong. My tension is fine but it just looks so small. I started knitting size 14/16. Looked and measured too small. Switched to 18/20 and it still looks and measured too small. Does the knitted fabric have lots of stretch of us it meant to be a very close fit?

07.03.2019 - 13:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Edmiston, measure a similar garment you have and like the shape and compare these measurements to the ones given in the chart, this is the best way to get the finished measurements as long as our tension is right. read more about sizing here. Happy knitting!

07.03.2019 - 14:04

country flag Mamieflo wrote:

J'ai tricoté ce pull il y a 4 ans, me suis lancée dans du jacquard, malheureusement il m'était un peu juste au niveau du jacquard car cela resserre un peu , je l'ai offert à ma première petite fille, un peu à regret car il me plaisait beaucoup

20.05.2017 - 18:28

country flag Susanne Riisgaard Rasmussen wrote:

Opskr. 142-18. Forstår ikke: strikketips: "når A2 strikkes vil der være 1 maske i slutningen..... denne maske strikkes ind i mønsteret som første maske i næste rapport - er det første maske i næste pind eller er det første maske på samme pind?????? kan ikke få det til at passe. ender med 4 m plus kantmaske i en ende og 5 m plus kantmaske i anden ende ): ): hjælp - hjælp.....

11.11.2015 - 13:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Susanne, jo, når du har strikket A2 har du 1 m tilbage og den strikker du ifølge 1.m i A2 så mønsteret bliver ens i begge sider mod midt foran. God fornøjelse!

26.11.2015 - 09:18

country flag Ingunn Flaaterud wrote:

Nydelig jakke! Finnes denne som vest, dvs. uten knapper/stolper?

31.08.2014 - 07:54