DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.90$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Summer Lights Cardigan

Knitted DROPS jacket in garter st in ”Paris”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 153-5
DROPS design: Pattern no w-516
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-92-98-110-122-134 cm / 33"-36 1/4"-38½"-43½"-48"-52 3/4"
Full length: 54-57-60-63-66-69 cm / 21 1/4"-22½"-23½"-24 3/4"-26"-27"

Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
450-500-500-550-600-700 g color no 16, white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 5 mm / US 8 – or size needed to get 17 sts x 33 rows in garter st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON w/HOLES, NO 522: 5 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.90$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

DECREASE TIP (dec from RS):
Dec 1 st from RS on each side of marker as follows: Work until 3 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is in the middle), K 2 tog.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st on each side of marker as follows: Work until 1 st remains before marker, make 1 YO, work 2 sts (marker is in the middle), make 1 YO. On next row K YOs twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right front piece from RS. 1 buttonhole = K tog fourth and fifth st from mid front and make 1 YO. Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 11, 19, 27, 35 and 43 cm / 4 3/8",7½",10 5/8",13 3/4",17"
SIZE M: 10, 19, 28, 37 and 46 cm / 4",7½",11",14½",18"
SIZE L: 9, 19, 29, 39 and 49 cm / 3½",7½",11 3/8",15 1/4",19 1/4"
SIZE XL: 11, 21, 31, 41 and 51 cm / 4 3/8",8 1/4",12 1/4",16 1/8",20"
SIZE XXL: 10, 21, 32, 43 and 54 cm / 4",8 1/4",12½",17",21 1/4"
SIZE XXXL: 12, 23, 34, 45 and 57 cm / 4 3/4",9",13 3/8",17 3/4",22½''

MEASURING TIP:
Measure piece from cast-on edge and up to the shoulder on the longer piece.
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 160-172-184-204-224-244 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Paris. Work in GARTER ST - see explanation above. When piece measures 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm / 1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1½''-1½''-1½'' - REMEMBER KNITTING GAUGE. - insert 2 markers in the piece after 42-45-48-53-58-63 sts in from each side = 76-82-88-98-108-118 sts between markers on back piece - move the markers upwards when working. On next row from RS, dec 1 st on each side of every marker - Read DECREASE TIP above = 4 sts dec. Repeat dec every 1½-2-2-2½-2½-3 cm / ½"-3/4"-3/4"-7/8"-7/8"-1 1/8" 5 more times (= 6 times in total) = 136-148-160-180-200-220 sts – AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 11-10-9-11-10-12 cm / 4 3/8"-4"-3½"-4 3/8"-4"-4 3/4", beg dec for BUTTONHOLES – see explanation above.
When piece measures 15-17-19-21-23-25 cm / 6"-6 3/4"-7½"-8 1/4"-9"-9 3/4", inc 1 st on each side of each marker - read INCREASE TIP = 4 new sts, repeat inc every 4 cm / 1½'' 3 more times (= 4 times in total) = 152-164-176-196-216-236 sts.
When piece measures 30-32-34-36-38-40 cm / 11¾''-12½''-13 3/8''-14¼''-15''-15¾, divide the piece at the markers and finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 72-78-84-94-104-114 sts. On next row from RS, inc 1 st in each side of piece, repeat inc 1 more time. Then cast on 21-20-19-16-13-10 sts in each side for sleeve at the end of the next 2 rows = 118-122-126-130-134-138 sts.
When piece measures 51-54-57-60-63-66 cm / 20"-21 1/4"-22½"-23 5/8"-24 3/4"-26", bind off the middle 28-28-30-30-32-32 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. On next row dec 1 st towards the neck AT THE SAME TIME bind off for diagonal shoulder at beg of every row in the side as follows: 11-11-11-12-12-13 sts 3 times in total = 11-13-14-13-14-13 sts remain on shoulder. On next row from RS bind off all sts, piece measures approx. 54-57-60-63-66-69 cm / 21 1/4"-22½"-23½"-24 3/4"-26"-27" - read MEASURING TIP above.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 40-43-46-51-56-61 sts. Then inc and cast on new sts for sleeve in the side as on back piece = 63-65-67-69-71-73 sts – remember BUTTONHOLES – see explanation above. When piece measures 44-47-50-52-55-58 cm / 17 1/4"-18½"-19 3/4"-20½"-21½"-22 3/4", bind off for neck as follows: 8 sts 1 time, then bind off 1 st 9-9-10-10-11-11 times in total every other row, and then bind off 1 st 2 times every 4th row – AT THE SAME TIME bind off for diagonal shoulder as on back piece when piece measures 52-55-58-61-64-67 cm / 20½"-21 5/8"-22 3/4"-24"-25 1/4"-26 3/8". Loosely bind off all sts as on back piece, piece measures approx. 54-57-60-63-66-69 cm / 21 1/4"-22½"-23½"-24 3/4"-26"-27".

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed and without buttonholes.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams tog. Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Victoria Apoita wrote:

Hola! Hice la muestra y llegó a 10 cm a las 27 hileras y el patrón indica 33 hileras. Deberé utilizar agujas número 4, en lugar de 5?

25.01.2024 - 03:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Victoria, si el número de puntos por fila es correcto, aunque el número de filas no sea correcto, puedes trabajar con la aguja de 5mm. Solo comprueba las medidas dentro del patrón a lo largo; si se indican en cm no hay problema pero si se indican en número de filas puede que tengas que hacer algún ajuste.

28.01.2024 - 23:34

country flag Zuzana wrote:

Ďakujem za pekný návod, radosť pliesť. Táto priadza je veľmi jemná, úplet vyzerá úhladne. Pri veľkosti L mi chýbalo kúsok priadze, nahradila som dvojtou Drops Safran - trochu to ozvláštnilo model. Takou farbou som potom aj prišila gombíky. Robíte svoju prácu veľmi dobre.

23.08.2023 - 13:30

country flag Anne Sage wrote:

Hello, I would like a different selvedge end for the vertical edges. What are your recommendations?

05.04.2021 - 16:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anne, please understand, that we cannot modify our patterns to each individual request. However, if you mean the button band, you can use a K1/P1 or K2/ P2 seed stitch. Alternately, you can leave off the button band entirely, (cast on appropriately less stitches) and when you finished the piece, you can pick up along the front edges and knit a ribbed button band. Happy Knitting!

05.04.2021 - 19:35

country flag Annette wrote:

Hvor mange masker skal der samles op i halskanten til str. Xl? Går da ud fra, kanten skal afsluttes pænt og ikke synlige aflukninger mod hals. På forhånd tak

02.05.2019 - 18:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Annette. Denne jmodellen har ingen halskant, du feller maskene rett av. Du må gjerne legge til en halskant om du vil. Da kan du se på tilsvarende modeller i samme garngruppe, og med halskant for en ide om fremgangsmåte. God fornøyelse

03.05.2019 - 08:34

country flag Angela Bunge wrote:

Warum ist die Maschenprobe in der Anleitung mit17 M x 33 R angegeben? Auf dem Garn steht 17 M x 22 R . Was ist jetzt richtig? Gruß Angela

13.04.2015 - 21:05

DROPS Design answered:

Die Maschenprobe auf der Banderole oder bei den Garnangaben gilt immer nur als Richtwert für glatt rechts für ein durchschnittlich festes Maschenbild, um eine Vorstellung von der Garndicke zu haben. Letztendlich ist immer die Maschenprobe ausschlaggebend, die in der Anleitung steht, und auch, in welchem Muster sie erfolgen soll - hier stricken Sie die Maschenprobe kraus rechts, dafür braucht man immer mehr R für 10 cm als bei glatt rechts. Die Maschenprobe der Anleitung ist also auch hier maßgeblich.

14.04.2015 - 14:26

country flag Sonja wrote:

Ik heb drops paris gekocht, maar het vreemde is de steken verhouding. In het patroon staat 17 steken 33 nld maar op de bol katoen staat 17 steken 22 nld. Wat is nou het juiste.

12.02.2014 - 20:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Sonja. Je moet de stekenverhouding vermeld in het patroon aanhouden. Die kan altijd verschillen ivm stekentypes, structuur of motief in het patroon. De stekenverhouding op de wikkel is een standaard (en in tricotst), voor de stekenverhouding op dit patroon moet je ribbelsteken breien.

13.02.2014 - 10:47

country flag Marie Danneels wrote:

Klassiek, mooi, simpel!

27.01.2014 - 12:21

Monika Nygård wrote:

Enkel men snygg

23.01.2014 - 16:04

country flag Christine wrote:

L'indémodable petit gilet à manches courtes qui va avec tout.

06.01.2014 - 17:49

country flag Marita wrote:

Liker det enkle og elegante.

30.12.2013 - 21:56