Emily Gloves

Knitted DROPS gloves with lace pattern and a small lace edge in ”BabyAlpaca Silk”. Size: S - XL.

DROPS 140-37
DROPS design: Pattern no bs-028
Yarn group A
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Size: S/M - L/XL

Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
100-100 g color no 8465, medium gray

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS SEASHELL BUTTON NO 525: 6 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows seen from RS. No of sts in A.1 will vary from 8 to 10 depending on where you are in the diagram. On 3rd and 4th row in diagram work short rows as follows: K 3, turn piece, tighten thread and work rest of row. Do the same on 9th and 10th row in diagram.
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LEFT GLOVE:
Piece is first worked back and forth and then in the round on double pointed needles.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Cast on 56-62 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with BabyAlpaca Silk. P 1 row from WS. Then work as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): K 8, insert 1 marker, * K 1, but work st through st from previous row instead of st on needle, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 9 sts remain, K 1 through st from previous row, insert 1 marker and K the last 8 sts on needle, turn piece.
ROW 2 (= WS): Work A.1 until marker (= 8 sts – see explanation above), K over K and P over P until next marker and K the last 8 sts on needle (= edge in garter st).
Continue pattern like this, i.e. K the 8 sts before first marker on every row (seen from RS), rib until next marker (from RS: K 1 in st from previous row / P 2 and from WS: K over K and P over P), and A.1 (= lace edge) over sts after last marker (seen from RS) – Read explanation on PATTERN above.
When piece measures approx. 8 cm / 3'' - finish after one full repetition of A.1 vertically, there are 8 sts on lace edge. Place sts from lace edge on top of the 8 sts from edge in garter st in the other side of piece (so that the opening of vent is faced out towards outer side of hand). K 1 round AT THE SAME TIME work the 8 sts from lace edge tog with edge in garter st as follows: K 1 st from A.1 tog with 1 st from edge in garter st, * then K next st from A.1 tog with next st from edge in garter st *, repeat from *-* until all the 8 sts from A.1 have been worked tog with sts in garter st = 48-54 sts on needle. Cut the thread. Insert 1 marker in the 7th st after lace edge (i.e. in 1 K st = outer side of hand) and 1 marker in the 24th-27th st after first marker (i.e. in 1 K st = beg of round, i.e. inside hand). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Beg at marker inside hand and work in stockinette st in the round on double pointed needles AT THE SAME TIME work the middle 5 sts on outer side of hand as follows: P 2, K 1 in st from previous round (marker is in this st) and P 2.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
AT THE SAME TIME when 4 rounds have been worked after cuff, insert 1 new marker mid on top of hand (in size S/M insert marker in the 12th st on round and in size L/XL insert marker in middle of the 13th and 14th st on round). Then work pattern according to diagram A.2 mid on top of hand (work the other sts as before) – A.2 beg in st with marker in size S/M and in st after marker in size L/XL.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'', beg inc for thumb gusset. Inc 1 st on each side of the third last st on round (i.e. inside hand) – inc 1 st by making a YO, K YO twisted on next round to avoid holes. Inc on each side of the inc sts every 3rd round 4-5 more times = 11-13 thumb sts and 58-66 sts in total. When piece measures 6-7 cm / 2½"-2 3/4", slip thumb sts + 1 st on each side (= 13-15 sts) on a stitch holder. Cast on 3 new sts behind the thumb = 48-54 sts. Continue in the round in stockinette st and the 5 sts rib on outer side for hand until piece measures 10-11 cm / 4"-4½". Now slip the first 19-21 sts on top of hand on a stitch holder, keep the next 11-13 sts on needle and slip the last 18-20 sts inside the hand on another stitch holder.

LITTLE FINGER:
= 11-13 sts, cast on 1 new st towards sts on stitch holders = 12-14 sts. Work in stockinette st in the round with 5 sts rib in the side as before for approx. 5½-6½ cm / 2 1/4"-2½". Then K2 tog around. Cut the thread and pull it through the remaining sts and tighten tog.

HAND:
Slip sts from stitch holders back on the needles, in addition pick up 2-3 sts towards the little finger = 39-44 sts. Work 2 rounds in stockinette st. Keep the 2-3 sts that were picked up towards the little finger + 6-6 sts on top of hand and 5-5 sts inside the hand on the needle. Slip the remaining sts back on the stitch holders (= 13-15 sts on top of hand and 13-15 sts inside the hand).

RING FINGER:
= 13-14 sts, cast on 1 new st towards sts on stitch holders = 14-15 sts. Work in stockinette st in the round for approx. 7-8 cm / 2 3/4"-3 1/8", then K2 tog around. Cut the thread and pull it through the remaining sts and tighten tog.

MIDDLE FINGER:
Slip 6-7 sts from each stitch holder back on needle, in addition pick up 2 sts towards the ring finger and cast on 1 new st towards sts on stitch holders = 15-17 sts. Work in stockinette st in the round for approx. 7½-8½ cm / 2 7/8"-3 1/4", then K2 tog around. Cut the thread and pull it through the remaining sts and tighten tog.

INDEX FINGER:
Slip the remaining 14-16 sts from stitch holders back on needles, in addition pick up 2 sts towards the middle finger = 16-18 sts. Work in stockinette st in the round for approx. 6½-7½ cm / 2½"-2 7/8", then K2 tog around. Cut the thread and pull it through the remaining sts and tighten tog.

THUMB:
Slip the sts over thumb gusset on the needles and in addition pick up 3 sts along the edge behind the thumb sts = 16-18 sts. Work in stockinette st in the round for approx. 5½-6 cm / 2 1/4"-2½", then K2 tog around. Cut the thread and pull it through the remaining sts and tighten tog.

RIGHT GLOVE:
Work as left glove but reversed. I.e. work A.1 over the first 8 sts at beg of row (seen from RS) and work in garter st over the last 8 sts on row (seen from RS) instead of reversed. In addition place lace edge over edge in garter st so that opening on cuff is faced the other way, and inc for thumb gusset on each side of third st at beg of round (instead of on each side of third last st on round).

ASSEMBLY:
Sew 3 buttons along edge in garter st on each glove and use holes on lace edge as buttonholes.

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Beret and scarf - see pattern 140-38
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Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 dbl YO, i.e. 2 YO between 2 sts.
symbols = K the first YO and K the second YO twisted
symbols = bind off this st
symbols = K 2 twisted tog
symbols = K the first YO and slip the second YO off the needle
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (9)

country flag Dea wrote:

Scusate non prendete in esame gli ultimi due miei commenti/domande. Ho trovato l'errore che mi impediva di lavorare normalmente. Grazie.

14.12.2018 - 18:42

country flag Dea wrote:

Buonasera, mi trovo dopo la chiusura del polsino in tondo. Nella spiegazione dice di lavorare le 5 m centrali sul lato esterno della mano in qst modo " 2 rov, , 1 dir nella m del giro precedente (come nel polsino lavorato avanti e indietro; sono le mezze coste inglesi) e poi 2 rov. " . Come è possibile fare la mezza costa inglese in tondo visto che mancherebbe un filo per ottenerla? Forse bisogna farla diventare come una costa inglese classica? Non è possibile un video di qst lavoro?

15.11.2018 - 18:43

country flag Dea wrote:

Buonasera, mi trovo dopo la chiusura del polsino in tondo. Nella spiegazione dice di lavorare le 5 m centrali sul lato esterno della mano in qst modo " 2 rov, , 1 dir nella m del giro precedente (come nel polsino lavorato avanti e indietro; sono le mezze coste inglesi) e poi 2 rov. " . Come è possibile fare la mezza costa inglese in tondo visto che mancherebbe un filo per ottenerla? Forse bisogna farla diventare come una costa inglese classica? Non è possibile un video di qst lavoro?

15.11.2018 - 18:42

country flag Dea wrote:

Scusate ho trovato dove sbagliavo e la spiegazione è giusta visto che è il guanto sinistro. Mea culpa. :)

13.11.2018 - 11:23

country flag Dea wrote:

Buongiorno. Dice di lavorare il diagramma A1 partendo col primo ferro dello schema stando sul "Rovescio del Lavoro", così facendo però il ferro 5 del diagramma (il primo dopo i due ferri accorciati) si troverebbe sul "Rovescio del Lavoro" mentre quando ho fatto la sciarpa e il cappello il "bordo di pizzo" iniziava col ferro 1 dello schema sul "Diritto del Lavoro". C'è qualcosa di strano. Grazie.

13.11.2018 - 11:15

country flag Dea wrote:

Buonasera nella spiegazione c'è una parola doppiata " Lavorato prima lavorato avanti e in...." . E' un refuso. :)

12.11.2018 - 21:29

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Dea. Abbiamo corretto il testo. La ringraziamo per la segnalazione. Buon lavoro!

13.11.2018 - 09:22

country flag Catarina Adamson wrote:

Hej! Förstår inte hur jag stickar ihop spetsen med den rätstickad biten efter manshetten är klar. Kan jag få en bättre , tydligare, förklaring. Tack på förhand

20.12.2017 - 16:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, jo såhär skriver vi: sticka tillsammans med den rätst kanten så här: Sticka 1 m från A.1 rät tills med 1 m från den rätst kanten, * sedan stickas nästa m från A.1 rät tills med nästa m från den rätst kanten *, upprepa *-* tills alla de 8 m från A.1 har stickats ihop med de rätst m = 48-54 m på st

02.01.2018 - 10:58

country flag Catarina wrote:

Hej! Jag blir inte riktigt klar över diagram a1. Stickas mönstret bara över de aviga varven eller över alla varv? Alltså skall jag avsluta m 8 räta på de räta hela tiden eller. Om mönstret stickas över alla, vilket varv börjar det på? O vilken sida av mönstret är ytterkanten? Tacksam för snabbt svar!

19.12.2017 - 18:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Catarina, A.1 stickas över alla varv men bara i ena sidan. Se även MÖNSTER-info: Se diag A.1 och A.2. Diag visar alla v i mönstret sett från rätsidan. Maskantalet i diag A.1 varierar från 8 till 10 m beroende av var man är i mönstret. På v 3 och 4 i diag stickas det förkortade v så här: Sticka 3 rm, vänd arb, strama tråden och sticka v ut. Det samma görs på v 9 och 10 i diag. Lycka till!

20.12.2017 - 11:28

country flag Anna wrote:

Hallo, ich habe den linken Handschuh problemlos nach Anleitung gestrickt. Nun habe ich den rechten Handschuh begonnen, weiß aber nicht genau wie man die Bordüre hier stricken soll, da die 3 Maschen die hin- und zurück gestrickt werden nicht mehr am Anfang der Reihe, sondern am Ende der nächsten liegen. Ich müsste also immer eine extra Reihe stricken, wodurch der Handschuh aber anders aussehen würde als der linke. Wie schaffe ich es, dass beide Handschuhe gleich werden?

11.11.2015 - 10:03

DROPS Design answered:

An sich müssten die 3 M auch wieder am R-Beginn liegen, ich denke, Sie sollten das Muster beim rechten Handschuh mit der Hin-R beginnen statt mit der Rück-R, Sie stricken also einfach am Anfang eine R weniger. Ich hoffe, dass es so funktioniert.

19.11.2015 - 10:08