DROPS 135-2
DROPS design: Pattern no. DE-046
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-96-104-114-126-138 cm / 34 5/8"-37 3/4"-41"-45"-49½"-54 1/4"
Full length: 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''

Materials: DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
color no 01, gray mix: 350-350-400-450-450-500 g

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 3.5 mm / US 4 - or size needed to get 23 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2or3 - for rib.

DROPS BUTTON NR 534, Angular Silver: 6-6-7-7-7-7 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

BUTTONHOLES:
Make 6-6-7-7-7-7 buttonholes on left front band when rib measures 1,5 cm / ½".
1 buttonhole = bind off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on return row above the bound off sts.
Make buttonholes when front band measures (measured from bottom edge):
Size S: 4, 10, 16, 22, 28 and 34 cm / 1½",4",6 1/4",8 3/4",11" and 13 3/8".
Size M: 5, 11, 17, 23, 29 and 35 cm / 2",4 3/8",6 3/4",9",11 3/8" and 13 3/4".
Size L and XL: 2, 8, 14, 20, 26, 32 and 38 cm / 3/4",3 1/8",5½",8",10 1/4",12½" and 15".
Size XXL: 3, 9, 15, 21, 27, 33 and 39 cm / 1 1/8",3½",6",8 1/4",10 5/8",13" and 15 1/4".
Size XXXL: 4, 10, 16, 22, 28, 34 and 40 cm / 1½",4",6 1/4",8 3/4",11",13 3/8" and 15 3/4".
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on the needle. Cast on 131-143-155-167-185-203 sts (includes 1 edge sts on each side) on needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with Delight. P 1 row on WS. Then work next row from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st * K3, P3*, repeat *-* and finish with K3 and 1 edge st in garter st.
Continue in rib until piece measures 4 cm / 1½''. Change to needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. K 1 row from RS. K 1 row from WS, at the same time dec 36-39-43-44-48-54 sts evenly = 95-104-112-123-137-149 sts. Continue in stockinette st.
REMEMBER THE GAUGE! AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 9 cm / 3½'' inc 1 st on each side. Repeat inc on every 8-8-7-7-7-6 cm / 3 1/8"-3 1/8"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/8" a total of 4-4-5-5-5-6 times = 103-112-122-133-147-161 sts.
When piece measures 41-42-43-44-45-46 cm / 16 1/8''-16½''-17''-17¼''-17¾''-18'' bind off for armholes at beg of every row each side: 4 sts 0-0-1-1-1-1 time, 3 sts 1-1-1-1-1-2 times, 2 sts 2-3-3-5-7-8 times and 1 st 2-3-3-3-4-6 times = 85-88-90-93-97-97 sts.
When piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾'' bind off the middle 31-32-32-33-35-35 sts for neck and work each shoulder separately.
Bind off 1 st on neckline on next row = 26-27-28-29-30-30 sts left on shoulder.
Bind off when piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on the needle. Cast on 68-74-80-86-92-104 sts (includes 1 edge st at the side and 1 edge st towards mid front) on needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with Delight. P 1 row on WS. Work next row from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, * P3, K3 *, repeat *-* and finish with 1 edge st in garter st. Continue rib until piece measures 4 cm / 1½''. Change to needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. K 1 row on RS. K 1 row on WS and AT THE SAME TIME dec 20-22-24-24-23-29 sts evenly = 48-52-56-62-69-75 sts. Continue in stockinette st.
When piece measures 9 cm / 3½'' inc at the side as on back piece. When piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm / 14¼''-14½''-15''-14 1/4''-15¾''-16 1/8'' dec 1 st for v-neck at the beg of the row from mid front. Repeat dec every 1 cm / 3/8'' a total of 17-17-17-18-19-19 times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 41-42-43-44-45-46 cm / 16 1/8''-16½''-17''-17¼''-17¾''-18'' bind off for armhole at the side as described for back piece. When all dec are made 26-27-28-29-30-30 sts remain for shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work as left front piece, but mirrored.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on the needle. Cast on 68-68-74-74-80-80 sts (includes 1 edge st on each side) on needle size 3 mm / US 2or3. P 1 row on WS. Then work rib as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, * K3, P3 *, repeat *-* and finish with 1 edge st in garter st.
Continue until rib measures 9 cm / 3½''. Change to needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. K 1 row from RS. K 1 row on WS and AT THE SAME TIME dec 13-11-15-13-14-13 sts evenly = 55-57-59-61-66-67 sts.
Continue in stockinette st.
When piece measures 12-12-14-15-15-18 cm / 4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5½"-6"-6"-7" inc 1 st on each side. Repeat inc on every 3½-3-2½-2-2-1½ cm / 1 1/4"-1 1/8"-7/8"-3/4"-½" a total of 12-14-16-18-18-20 times = 79-85-91-97-102-107 sts.
When piece measures 56-55-54-54-52-50 cm / 22"-21 5/8"-21 1/4"-21 1/4"-20½"-19 3/4" (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) bind off 3 sts at the beg of next 2 rows. Continue to bind off for sleeve cap at the beg of every row each side: 2 sts 3-4-4-4-4-4 times, 1 st 3-3-5-6-9-14 times, then bind off 2 sts each side until piece measures 63-63-63-64-64-65 cm / 24 3/4"-24 3/4"-24 3/4"-25 1/4"-25 1/4"-25½".
Bind off 3 sts 1 time each side, then bind off. Piece measures approx 64-64-64-65-65-66 cm / 25 1/4"-25 1/4"-25 1/4"-25½"-25½"-26".

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams and set in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams at once, sew inside 1 edge st.

FRONT BAND/NECK BAND:
Worked back and forth on the circular needle. Pick up 418-430-442-454-466-478 sts inside 1 edge st on circular needle 3 mm/ US 2or3 with Delight (pick up along right front piece, along neckline on the back and down along left front piece).
K 3 rows and AT THE SAME TIME on last row inc 35 sts evenly = 453-465-477-489-501-513 sts (the number of sts must be divisible by 6+3).
Work next row from RS as follows: 3 garter sts * K3, P3 * repeat *-* and finish with K3 and 3 garter sts. When rib measures 1.5 cm / ½'' make 6-6-7-7-7-7 BUTTONHOLES – see explanation above - on left front band. When front band measures approx 3 cm / 1 1/8'' bind off with K over K and P over P.
Sew on buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (28)

country flag Juliette wrote:

Bonjour, A la fin des côtes, pour le dos comme pour les devants, est ce que les diminutions doivent être réalisées sur les deux rangs (rang endroit et envers après les côtes) ou sur un seul ? Aussi, comment est il possible de bien répartir les diminutions (toutes les combiens de mailles ?) Merci d'avance ! Merci d'avance !

24.09.2022 - 19:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Juliette, les 36-39-43-44-48-54 diminutions du dos et les 20-22-24-24-23-29 diminutions diminutions du devant (après les côtes) se font au rang tricoté à l'endroit sur l'envers - cette leçon vous aidera à calculer comment répartir ces diminutions. Bon tricot!

26.09.2022 - 09:15

country flag Gabriela wrote:

Cuantos puntos hay que rematar en la primera fila de las sisas? No esta indicado Gracias!

28.10.2020 - 10:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Gabriela. Tienes razón. Ha sido una errata al publicar el patrón. Para la sisa cerramos como sigue: 4 pts 0-0-1-1-1-1 vez, 3 pts 1-1-1-1-1-2 veces, 2 pts 2-3-3-5-7-8 veces y 1 pt 2-3-3-3-4-6 veces.

01.11.2020 - 12:55

country flag Gabriela wrote:

Hola! Quisiera por favor me digan cuantos puntos debo rematar al principio de las sisas, ya que para la primera rematada solo indican 1 vez (para talla XL) Gracias!

25.10.2020 - 18:34

DROPS Design answered:

Ver la respuesta arriba

01.11.2020 - 13:31

country flag Trine wrote:

Jeg strikker XXL, lige nu venstre forstykke. Efter udtagning af 1 m i hver side 5 gange som på rygstykket (står der i opskriften) er jeg på 79 masker. Jeg skal tage 1 m ind 19 gange til V hals samt i alt 25 m til ærme, som på rygstykket. Det giver mig 35 m tilbage på pinden, men i opskriften står der, at der kun skal være 30 m. Hvad gør jeg galt?\r\ndet er irriterende, når der i opskriften bliver henvist til et andet afsnit, så man skal springe rundt og mellemregninger mangler

16.10.2019 - 02:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Trine, når jeg tæller maskerne sammen får jeg 30... du har 92, tager 23 ind, 5 ud i siden, 19 ind til v-hals og 25 ind til ærmegab = 30 masker. God fornøjelse!

16.10.2019 - 15:35

country flag Sh wrote:

Hallo . er staat in het patroon dat je bij de armsgaten bij het voorpand MOET Aafkanten net zoals bij het achterpand bij maat xl. maar als je dat doet kom je uit op 34 reststeken ipv 29

25.03.2019 - 13:18

country flag Mariella wrote:

Bellissimo spegazioni ottime fatto senza problemi complimenti

16.02.2019 - 19:13

country flag Kelly wrote:

Ik heb laatst dit garen gekocht maar het lijkt niet op het garen van het patroon. Twee jaar geleden heb ik dezelfde garen gekocht en dit leek exact op de kleur van dit patroon. De garen die ik nu hebt besteld is aan de zwarte kant in plaats van de mooie overgang vn lichtgrijs/donkergrijs. Ik zou graag de garen willen hebben die lijkt op de vest die de man aan heeft. Hopelijk bestaat dit nog wel want ik vind de kleur van toen veel mooier. De kleur die ik wil is gemaakt met dyelot 1124.

30.08.2018 - 17:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Kelly, De kleur kan inderdaad enigszins verschillen per verfbad. Om garen te bestellen met een bepaald verfbad(nummer) kun je het beste contact opnemen met de winkel waar je het garen hebt gekocht. Misschien hebben ze nog garen van dat verfbad en is het mogelijk om bollen te ruilen.

31.08.2018 - 11:52

country flag Marion wrote:

Bonjour je souhaite realizer le modèle Coast Living, mais je ne suis pas sure de comprendre un point. La bande d'encolure est à realizer sur des aiguilles circulaires? Pourquoi? et ne peut on pas le faire sur des aiguilles droites? Merci d'avance

12.04.2018 - 16:34

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marion, les mailles de la bordure d'encolure sont effectivement relevées avec l'aiguille circulaire pour avoir suffisamment de place pour y loger toutes les mailles (d'un bas du devant à l'autre), mais on tricote ensuite en allers et retours. Bon tricot!

12.04.2018 - 16:48

country flag W.cevaal wrote:

Vraag in het patroon staat na de boord te hebben gebreid dat je moet minderen klopt dit wel en als je het wel moet doen wat wordt er bedoelt met de steken verhouding ik vindt het zo raar dat je na de boord moet minderen met vr gr mevr cevaal

11.09.2017 - 16:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo W. Cevaal, Dat klopt, je moet bij dit minderen na de boord. Met de stekenverhouding wordt bedoelt dat je met (in dit geval) 23 steken en 30 naalden in tricotsteek uit moet komen op 10 cm breed en 10 cm hoog. Brei altijd een proeflapje en pas evt. de naalddikte aan om uit te komen op de juiste stekenverhouding.

13.09.2017 - 16:26

country flag W.cevaal wrote:

Hoe moet ik het patroon aanpassen oom 4 x xl te maken mvgr w.cevaal

14.08.2017 - 15:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo W. Cevaal, Het patroon is geschreven tot en met maat xxxl. Bedoel je met 4 keer xl: xxxxl? Als je het vest wat groter wilt maken, zou je naar eigen inzicht een aantal extra steken op kunnen zetten. Op basis van de stekenverhouding kun je uitrekenen hoeveel extra steken je op moet zetten. Als voorbeeld: Als je het achterpand 5 cm breder wilt maken moet je in dit geval 11 a 12 steken extra op zetten.

15.08.2017 - 15:47