DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Baby 17-7
SCARF:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 – 3/4) years
Materials: DROPS SNOW
100 g for all sizes color no 01, off-white

SOCKS:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 – 3/4) years
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 (14-16) cm
[4”-4 3/8”-4¾” (5½”-6¼”)]
Materials: DROPS SNOW
100 g for all sizes color no 01, off-white
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SCARF:
DROPS POINTED Needles size 9 mm [US 13] – or size needed to get 10 sts x 21 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].

SOCKS:
DROPS POINTED Needles size 6 mm [US 10] – or size needed tog get 13 sts x 26 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
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SCARF:
Worked in garter st – SEE ABOVE.
Cast on 10-12-12 (14-14) sts on needle size 9 mm [US 13] with Snow. Work garter st back and forth on needle until piece measures 7-8-9 (10-11) cm [2¾”-3 1/8”-3½” (4”-4 3/8”)].
Now divide the piece in 2 and slip half the sts on a stitch holder = 5-6-6 (7-7) sts on needle. Continue on these sts until piece measures 12-14-15 (17-18) cm [4¾”-5½”-6” (6¾”-7”)] from casting on row and slip sts on another stitch holder. Slip sts from the first stitch holder back on needle and work garter st on these until piece measures 12-14-15 (17-18) cm [4¾”-5½”-6” (6¾”-7”)] from casting on row. Slip all sts back on needle and continue on all sts until piece measures 50-55-60 (65-70) cm [19¾”-21 5/8”-23 5/8” (25½”-27½”)]. bind off loosely.
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SOCKS:
Worked back and forth on needle from mid under foot in garter st – SEE ABOVE.
Cast on 26-28-32 (36-40) sts on needle size 6 mm [US 10] with Snow. As seen from RS, the left side of piece = toe and the right side of piece = top of leg. Work shortened rows mid back as follows (row 1 = RS): work 6 sts, turn piece, slip 1 st as if to K, work return row. Work 12 sts, turn piece, slip 1 st as if to K, work return row. Work 1 row on all sts. Now dec for heel as follows: Insert a marker in st 13-14-16 (18-20) from toe. On next row (= WS) dec 1 st on each side of st with marker by K2 tog. Repeat the dec on every other row another 2-2-2 (3-3) times = 20-22-26 (28-32) sts. Remove marker. Continue until piece measures approx 9-10-11 (12-13) cm [3½”-4”-4 3/8” (4¾”-5 1/8”)] from the last dec – adjust so that next row is from RS.
Insert a marker in st 10-11-13 (14-16) from toe. Now inc for heel (from RS) as follows: Inc 1 st on each side of st with marker by working 2 sts in 1 st. Repeat the inc on every other row another 2-2-2 (3-3) times = 26-28-32 (36-40) sts. Work 1 row on all sts from WS.
Now work shortened rows mid back as follows:
Work 12 sts, turn piece, slip 1 st as if to K, work return row. Work 6 sts, turn piece, slip 1 st as if to K, work return row. Bind off all sts on next row
Sew sock tog mid under foot and mid back, sew in outer loops of sts to avoid a chunky seam. Run a thread round the toe, tighten and fasten.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (28)

country flag Gudrun wrote:

Guten Morgen,\r\nwie in der Anleitung beschrieben habe ich beim 1. Socken die Anschlagskante und die Abkettkante zusammengenäht. Ich kann leider nicht erkennen, welche Seite die Spitze ist. Ich vermute, dass die Seite mit dem Anschlagsfaden der Schaft ist. Ist das richtig? Oder hätte ich die Randmaschen zusammennähen müssen?\r\nAuf Antwort freut sich Gudrun

29.12.2022 - 22:45

country flag Heidi wrote:

Sticka rätst tills arb mäter ca 9-10-11 (12-13) cm från sista minskningen – avpassa så att nästa v stickas från rätsidan. Alltså ska jag sticka 9 cm ovanpå allt det andra jag redan stickat? Ca 3 cm hittills mitt på arbetet. Känns som att sockan blir alldeles för stor då, eller tänker jag fel?

07.01.2021 - 01:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Heidi. Størrelsemessig høres det nesten mer riktig ut at det skal være 9 cm fra oppleggskanten, med dette er store sokker og siden de er rillestrikket trekker de seg godt sammen. Men oppskriften er oversendt design avd slik at de kan ta en dobbeltsjekk og evnt komme med en rettelse. mvh DROPS deisgn

18.01.2021 - 11:32

country flag Lisabet wrote:

Hej Drops design. I vejleder mig til at bruge andet garn ? I har lavet opskriften til baby med Eskimo garnet derfor må forbrugeren regne med at opskrift og garn kan bruges ? Kæmpe arb til ingen nytte. Meget utilfreds med svaret. I har mistet en god kunde her.

17.03.2020 - 04:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lisabet. Oppskrift og garn kan fint brukes, noen liker denne kvaliteten, andre ikke. Siden du ikke var fornøyd med garnet, har vi gitt deg noen alternativer som kanskje du vil like bedre. mvh DROPS design

17.03.2020 - 07:16

country flag Drops Baby 17/7 wrote:

Synes drops Eskimo garn er fuldstændig uegnet til baby. Jeg er så ked, ærgeligt, fustrede over at måtte se mit barnebarn ligge med hele hånden fuld af uld tråde i hånden som han så putter i munden og kan blive kvalt. Har lavet baby tæppe, bamsedragt, tørklæde i dette garn. Et kæmpe arbejde er spildt. Har fuldt vaske anvisning. Man køber lækkert garn uld til guldklumpen det bedste af det bedste troede jeg.

11.03.2020 - 14:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hei. Leit å høre at du ikke er fornøyd med Eskimo. Om du velger et tynnere garn, i f.eks garngruppe A og der garnet er mer spunnet vil ikke løse fibre falle av så fort. Les gjerne om hver enkelt garnkvalitet under GARN. mvh DROPS design

16.03.2020 - 08:41

country flag Drops Baby 17/7 wrote:

Synes dette garn er uegnet til baby strik. Er ked, fustrede, ærgelig spildt arbejde. Har lavet tørklæde, bamsedragt, tæppe i dette materiale og fuldt anvisning om vask. Baby får trådene i garnet i sin hånd og putter det i sin mund. Min datter vil ikke bruge det jeg har lavet, bange for at baby bliver kvalt i uldet. Virkelig slemt.

11.03.2020 - 14:06

country flag Gaëlle wrote:

Bonjour, j'entreprends de faire l'écharpe, mais je ne comprends pas comment faire lorsque l'on reprend les mailles en attente. C'est OK pour remettre les mailles sur l'aiguille, mais si je garde le même fil, il sera "tendu" en travers de l'ouverture, non? Car les mailles en attente sont situées plus bas sur l'ouvrage! Dois je continuer avec mon fil ou le couper et tricoter les mailles qui attendaient avec un nouveau fil et rentrer les fils à la fin? Merci de votre aide

18.09.2017 - 21:19

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Gaëlle, quand vous avez tricoté la 1ère moitié, coupez le fil, reprenez les mailles en attente et tricotez-les jusqu'à la hauteur indiquée, puis reprenez toutes les mailles sur la même aiguille. Bon tricot!

19.09.2017 - 08:53

country flag Elena wrote:

Dobrý den, chci se zeptat ohledně pletení šály (DROPS Baby 17-7). Když přesouvám polovinu ok na pomocnou jehlici a pletu zbylá oka dále až do 15cm a poté se mám vrátit k upletení zbylých ok, která byla na pomocné jehlici, nevím, jak mám pokračovat, když nit, se kterou bych měla plést zůstala u ok ve výšce 15cm? Děkuji velmi za případnou radu. S pozdravem Elena

17.01.2017 - 15:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den, po dopletení první části do výše 15 cm je potřeba nit odstřihnout a navázat k okům odloženým na pomocné jehlici. Jakmile dopletete do výše 15 cm i druhou půlku šály, pokračujete už bez stříhání nitě a pletete pak obě části zase dohromady. Hodně zdaru! Hana

27.01.2017 - 08:04

country flag Gill Söderlind wrote:

Hej! Om jag behöver fler maskor pga garnet, ska jag då också lägga till längden jag stickar innan jag delar? Mvh

05.05.2016 - 20:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, du bör kunna följa längden enligt beskrivningen om du vill ha storleken som du ser i mönstret. Lycka till!

06.05.2016 - 10:14

Ursula wrote:

Bonjour, je vous signale une erreur dans ce modèle: l'échantillon avec aiguilles 9 pour l'écharpe est de 21 mailles. Je l'ai essayé et mon échantillon mesure 18 mailles! Par contre les chaussettes, tricotés avec aiguille 6 sont correctes. Pouvez-vous m'indiquer la largeur de l'écharpe? Meilleures salutations Ursula

01.11.2013 - 08:52

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Ursula, effectivement l'échantillon en Eskimo avec des aiguilles 9 est de 10 m x 21 rangs = 10 x 10 cm, la correction a été faite, merci. Sur cette base, l'écharpe mesure, en fonction de la taille choisie 10-12-12 (14-14) cm de large. Bon tricot!

01.11.2013 - 09:41

country flag Nancy wrote:

Endlich mal etwas, was selbst ich schnell und ohne grosse Mühe problemlos hinbekommen habe!

27.10.2012 - 21:26