DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Silke Alpaca
DROPS Silke Alpaca
80% Wool, 20% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Little Finch

Knitted jacket with garter st in DROPS Alpaca with crochet edge in 1 strand of DROPS Silke Alpaca or 2 strands of DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. Size children 5 to 14 years.

DROPS Children 15-1
Size (years): 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MMaterials: Drops Alpaca
150-150-200-200-200 g colour no. 0100 off white

and use: Drops Silke Alpaca
50 g for all sizes colour no. 0100, off white
or
Drops BabyAlpaca Silk
50 g for all sizes colour no. 0100, off white

DROPS circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 or the size needed to obtain the correct gauge.
DROPS crochet hook size 5 mm / H/8 – for the edge

DROPS mother of pearl button without and hole, no. 524: 2 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Silke Alpaca
DROPS Silke Alpaca
80% Wool, 20% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Knitting gauge: 24 sts x 48 rows on needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with Alpaca in garter sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Garter sts back and forth: Knit on all rows

Button holes: bind off for button holes on the right front piece. 1 button hole = bind off the 3rd and the 4th st from mid front. On the next row cast on 2 new sts at the same place where you bind off.
Bind off for button holes when the piece measures:
Size 5/6: 5 and 11 cm / 2" and 4 3/8"
Size 7/8: 6 and 12 cm / 2 3/8" and 4¾''
Size 9/10: 6 and 13 cm / 2 3/8" and 5 1/8"
Size 11/12: 6 and 14 cm / 2 3/8" and 5½''
Size 13/14: 7 and 15 cm / 2 3/4" and 6''



Back piece:
Work back and forth on circular needles.
Cast on 84-88-93-98-103 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on circular needles size 3 mm / US 2or3 with Alpaca. Work in garter sts.
When the piece measures 14-15-16-17-18 cm / 5½"-6"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7" cast on loosely new sts each side for the sleeves on every other row (i.e. at the end of each row): 3 sts 4 times, 4 sts 3-3-4-4-4 times, 6 sts 4-4-5-5-6 times and 7 sts 0-1-1-2-2 times = 180-198-223-242-259 sts.
When the piece measures 25-27-29-31-33 cm / 9 3/4"-10 5/8"-11 3/8"-12 1/4"-13" bind off the mid 24-24-29-30-31 sts for the neck and work each side separately.
Continue and bind off 1 st on the next row towards the neck = 77-86-96-105-113 sts left for each shoulder/sleeve.
Bind off when the piece measures 27-29-31-33-35 cm / 10 5/8"-11 3/8"-12 1/4"-13"-13 3/4".

Right front:
Cast on 17-19-22-24-27 sts (includes1 edge st at the side) on needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with Alpaca.
Work in garter sts – at the same time cast on new sts at the mid front on every other row as follows: 3 sts 10-9-8-7-6 times and then on every 4th row 0-1-2-3-4 times = 47-49-52-54-57 sts.
Bind off for button holes – read explanation above.
Work until the work measures 13-14-15-16-17 cm / 5 1/8"-5½"-6"-6 1/4"-6 3/4" and then bind off for the V- neck towards the mid front on every cm / 3/8" as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3-3-4-4-4 times and 1 st 9-9-10-10-11 times. At the same time when the piece measures 14-15-16-17-18 cm / 5½"-6"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7" cast on for the sleeve at side as done for the back piece.
After all inc. and dec. for neck and sleeve there are 77-86-96-105-113 sts left for sleeve/ shoulder.
Bind off when the work measures 27-29-31-33-35 cm / 10 5/8"-11 3/8"-12 1/4"-13"-13 3/4".

Left front piece:
Work as right but reverse.

Assembly:
Sew the shoulder and sleeve seam loosely tog. Sew the side and the seam underneath the sleeve loosely tog. Sew the buttons on.

Crochet edge:
With 1 strand Silke Alpaca or 2 strands of the Alpaca, crochet with hook size 5 mm / H/8 an edge around all of the jacket (i.e. down along the left front, round the back and front pieces, up along the right front and round the neck line) as follows: 1 sc in the first st, *1 picot (= ch 3, 1 hdc in the first of the 3 ch), skip approx 1 cm / 3/8'', 1 sc in the next st, ch 3, skip approx. 2 cm / 3/4'' and 1 sc in the next st*, repeat from *-* and finish with a sl st in the first sc.
Now crochet an edge around both sleeves as follows: 1 sc in the first st *4 ch, skip approx ½ cm / 1/4'', 1 sc* repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in the first sc.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (50)

country flag Gianna wrote:

Se voglio fare questo modello con la manica lunga quante maglie devo mettere o quanti cm?

24.10.2023 - 10:15

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Gianna, per un aiuto così personalizzato può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

24.10.2023 - 22:35

country flag Jutta wrote:

I knit the little finch jacket with the drops baby merino wool, do I use the same wool for the crochet picot edge?

22.06.2022 - 20:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jutta, you can, but then work with 2 strands and crochet hook size 5 mm. Happy knitting!

23.06.2022 - 08:45

country flag Manuela Buchmüller wrote:

Könnten Sie mir bitte die Erklärung für 6M. 4-4-5-5-6 Mal geben? Ich stricke gerade das Rückenteil der Größe 146/152.Die Zunahme der Ärmel durch Maschenaufnahme in jeder 2. Reihe ist dann wieviel?

20.06.2022 - 13:43

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Buchmüller, wenn die Arbeit 17 cm mist, schlagen Sie beidseitig (am Ende je Hin- sowie Rückreihen) neue Maschen für die Ärmel, dh: am Ende der 8 nächsten Reihen schlagen Sie 3 Maschen an (= 3 M beidseitig 4 Mal), dann 4 Maschen am Ende der nächsten 8 Maschen (4 M beiseitig 4 Mal), 6 Maschen am Ende der nächsten 10 Reihen (6 M beidseitig 5 Mal) und 7 Maschen am Ende der 4 nächsten Reihen (7 M beidseitig 2 Mal), so haben Sie 98+24+32+60+28=242 Maschen / 12+16+30+14=72 neuen Maschen für jede Ärmel. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.06.2022 - 15:11

country flag Andrea wrote:

Entschuldigung. Habe das mit den Knopflöchern gefunden. Ich war zu schnell. Bitte Entschuldigung. Liebe Grüße an alle .

30.05.2021 - 10:13

country flag Andrea wrote:

Was ist mit Knopflöchern? Ins rechte Vorderteil müssen doch 2 Löcher für die 2 Knöpfe. Dazu fehlt die Angabe, wo die sind und wie groß. Danke

30.05.2021 - 10:04

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Andrea, die Erklärungen für die Knopflöcher finden Sie am Anfang der Anleitung, sowie wo sie je nach der Größe gestrickt werden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

10.06.2021 - 08:46

country flag Signe wrote:

Hvor bredt skal ærmet ende med at blive yderst ved albuen? Jeg strikker den mindste størrelse.

15.08.2020 - 10:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Signe, ved 14 cm tager du ud til ærme over 22 pinde = ca 4,5 cm = 18,5 cm og arb måler 27 cm når der lukkes af, dvs du har ca 8,5 cm både på for og bagstykke til ærme, så ialt ca 17 cm. God fornøjelse!

20.08.2020 - 13:39

country flag Lori wrote:

Im working on the little finch pattern. I'm coming up on binding off the 31 stitches on the back neck piece. I have 259 stitches. If each sleeve gets 113 stitches each and the neck gets 31 sts binded off, what do I do with the remaining 2 sts?

03.05.2020 - 06:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lovi, you cast off the middle 31 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately, while on next row starting from neck you will cast off 1 more stitch = 113 st remain for shoulder/sleeve. Happy knitting!

04.05.2020 - 12:32

country flag Conny wrote:

Was heißt "gegen die Mitte" und gegen die Seite aufnehmen?

18.05.2019 - 20:36

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe conny, mit "gegen die Mitte" meint man hier an der Öffnungsseite der Jacken = am Vorderteile (nicht gegen Seiten/Armloch). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.05.2019 - 10:42

country flag Rocquet wrote:

Je vous remercie pour votre reponse cela mais utile j aime beaucuop vos modeles bonne fin de journee

05.05.2019 - 16:06

country flag Rocquet wrote:

Bonjour je trouve ce modele jolie j aimerai le faire pour ma petite fille mais il faut faire une bordure au crochet et je sais pas faire peut on la faire au tricot s il vous plait je vous remercie de votre reponse par avance et m expliquer comment faire cordialement

02.05.2019 - 17:42

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rocquet, si vous ne voulez pas de bordure au crochet, vous pouvez par exemple relever les mailles des bords concernés et rabattre avec une bordure picot (cf vidéo) - faites un essai au préalable sur un échantillon pour voir si l'idée vous convient. Votre magasin saura vous conseiller - même par mail ou téléphone - et aura fort probablement d'autres suggestions. Bon tricot!

03.05.2019 - 08:37