DROPS Children 9-2
Size: Months 1/3months - 6/9months - 12/18months- 2 years (3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10) years.

Materials: DROPS Den-M-nit from Garnstudio
350-400-400-450 (500-550-600-650) g color no 51, mid blue.

Or use: DROPS COTTON LIGHT from GARNSTUDIO
350-400-400-400 (450-500-550-600) g colour no 26, jeans blue.


DROPS circular needle and double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2or3 and 3.5 mm/US 4.

DROPS wooden button–light no. 503: 2 pcs. (for the 3 smallest sizes only).

Gauge: 22 sts x 30 rows on needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and diagram M.4 = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Rib: * K 2, P 2 *. Repeat from *-*.

Garter st (back and forth): Knit all rows

Garter st (on circular needle): 1st round: Purl, 2nd round: Knit.

Pattern: See diagram (1 diagram = 1 repeat). The diagram is showing all rows in pattern seen from the RS.

Back and Front piece:
The cable part of the 2 largest sizes is wider than on the other sizes.
Cast on 120-132-144-160 (176-192-200-216) sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 in blue and work Rib for 2-2-2-2 (3-3-3-3) cm / 3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4" (1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8").
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work 2 rounds in garter sts increasing 36-36-36-36 (36-36-60-60) sts evenly on the first round = 156-168-180-196 (212-228-260-276) sts.
Work next round as follows: *18-24-30-38 (46-54-34-42) sts of diagram M.4, 18-18-18-18 (18-18-36-36) sts of diagram M.1, 24-24-24-24 (24-24-24-24) sts of diagram M.2, 18-18-18-18 (18-18-36-36) sts of diagram M.3 *, repeat from *-*.
Continue in pattern like this.
REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 23-24-27-28 (29-31-35-36) cm / 9"-9½"-10 5/8"-11" (11 3/8"-12 1/4"-13 3/4"-14 1/4") work next row as follows:
6-9-12-16 (20-24-14-18) sts, bind off 6 sts for armhole, 72-78-84-92 (100-108-124-132) sts, bind off 6 sts for armhole, 66-69-72-76 (80-84-110-114) sts (place the pattern in the same position on the front and back piece).
Put the piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Sleeve:
Cast on 36-40-40-44 (44-48-48-52) sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2or3 in blue and work Rib for 2-2-2-2 (3-3-3-3) cm / 3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4" (1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8").
Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work 2 round in garter st.
Continue in diagram M.4, at the same time inc 2 sts mid under arm, repeat on every 11th -13th -9th -12th (6th -7th -6th-6th) round a total of 4-4-6-6 (12-12-14-16) times = 44-48-52-56 (68-72-76-84) sts.
When piece measures 17-19-21-26 (27-31-34-38) cm / 6 3/4"-7½"-8 1/4"-10 1/4" (10 5/8"-12 1/4"-13 3/8"-15") bind off 6 sts mid under arm = 38-42-46-50 (62-66-70-78) sts.

Back and front pieces + sleeve:
Place the sleeves on the same circular needle as the body where you bound off for armholes = 220-240-260-284 (324-348-388-420) sts on needle.
Insert a marker in all transitions between sleeves and body pieces = 4 markers.
Continue the pattern work the first st on both sides of the marker in stockinette (= 2 stockinette sts in the transitions between body and sleeves).

Raglan decreases:
Read the entire section before working it!
There are 8 dec per round (1 dec on each side of the 2 Stockinette sts).
Work 2 rounds before starting the dec.
On next round dec 1 st on each side of the markers: repeat on every other round a total of 12-14-16-17 (22-23-22-22) times, thereafter on every round a total of 6-5-4-5 (4-5-10-13) times (a total of 144-152-160-176 (208-224-256-280) dec sts for the raglan).
Decrease as follows before the 2 stockinette sts:
From the RS: K2 tog.
From the WS: (does not apply until after the neck bind off): Slip the next 2 sts off the needle, twist and place them back on the left needle (one after the other), purl the 2 sts tog into back of st.
Decrease as follows after the 2 Stockinette sts:
From the RS: Slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso.
From the WS: (does not apply until after the neck bind off): P2 tog.

At the same time when there are 6-6-6-6 (8-8-8-8) rounds of raglan decreases left bind off for neck mid front (for all sizes) and for back split (for the 3 smallest sizes) as follows:
Put the front middle 20-22-24-26 (28-30-34-36) sts on a holder for neck and complete the piece back and forth on needle.
At the same time bind off the middle 6 sts on the back for split on the 3 smallest sizes. Shape the neckline by putting sts on the holder on every other row as follows:
The 4 smallest sizes: 2 sts 2 times,
The 4 largest sizes: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 1 time
(a total of 28-30-32-34 (40-42-46-48) sts are put on the holder for neck at the front).
After the last dec there are 42-52-62-74 (76-82-86-92) sts on needle and the sweater measures approx 33-35-39-41 (45-48-53-55) cm / 13"-13 3/4"-15 1/4"-16 1/8" (17 3/4"-19"-21"-21 5/8").

Assembly:
The 3 smallest sizes: Pick up approx 10 sts along the split at the left back on needle size 3 mm / US 2or3.
Purl 1 row (seen from the RS) and then work Rib for 2.5 cm / 7/8''. Bind off.
Repeat along the right side of the split but bind off for one buttonhole after 0.5 cm / 1/4'' approx 1 cm / 3/8'' from the top - 1 buttonhole = bind off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts over the bound off sts on the next row. Bind off.
Slip all the neck sts on to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2or3 and pick up a further 6 sts over each split edge on the back.
K 1 row at the same time dec 12 sts evenly over the cable part at the front and decrease 12 sts evenly over the cable part on the back (back = dec 6 sts on each side of the split) = 58-70-82 sts.
K1 row from the WS, and then work 3 cm / 1 1/8'' in Rib – at the same time when the rib measures 2 cm / 3/4'' bind off for 1 buttonhole above the other buttonhole.
Bind off in Rib.
Sew the opening under the arms and sew in the button on the back split.
The 5 largest sizes: Slip all the neck sts onto double pointed needle size 3 mm / US 2or3. K 1 row at the same time dec 12 (12-12-15-15) sts evenly over the cable part on the front and decrease 12 (12-12-15-15) evenly over the cable part on the back = 84 (92-100-102-110) sts.
Purl 1 round, then work in Rib for 4 (4-5-5-5) cm / 1½" (1½"-2"-2"-2").
Bind off in Rib. Sew the opening under the arms.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 27.01.2022
Raglan: .... Shape the neckline by putting sts on the thread on every other row as follows: The 4 smallest sizes: 2 sts 2 times, the 4 largest sizes: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 1 time (a total of 28-30-32-34 (40-42-46-48) sts are put on the thread for neck at the front).

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = slip 2 sts onto cable needle in front of piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts onto cable needle behind the piece, K2, K2 from cable needle.
symbols = slip 3 sts onto cable needle in front of piece, P1, K3 from cable needle.
symbols = slip 1 sts on cable needle behind the piece, K3, P1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts onto cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts onto cable needle behind the piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (18)

country flag Hanny wrote:

Ik volg het patroon, doe de minderingen voor de raglan zoals genoemd 2 st. R samenbreien en ARO., maar krijg zo’n onregelmatige raglan. Wat doe ik niet goed of hoort dit zo?

08.04.2023 - 13:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Hanny,

Zoals je de minderingen maakt voor de raglan is helemaal goed. De 2 tricotsteken aan elke kant van de markeerdraden blijven in tact, dus je mindert aan beide kanten van deze 2 tricotsteken.

12.04.2023 - 20:27

country flag Linda Højsgaard wrote:

Hejsa. Jeg sidder med 9-2 i str 2 år. Kan ikke få maske tallet til at passe ved halsen. Der står 26 m på en tråd plus 1*3, 1*2, og 1*1=38 m. Opskriften siger der skal være 34m. Pft Linda

26.01.2022 - 18:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Linda, det ser ud til at det skal stå de 4 mindste størrelser. Vi laver en rettelse. Tak for info :)

27.01.2022 - 11:27

country flag DANILIN Michèle wrote:

Est-il possible d'avoir les explications en taille 2 ans pour tricoter ce pull de haut en bas (en top-down) ? Merci d'avance

21.03.2020 - 12:49

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Danilin, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter individuellement chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande - vous pouvez tricoter ce modèle en taille 2 ans de bas en haut comme dans les explications ou bien choisir un autre modèle tricoté de haut en bas parmi les modèles enfant. Bon tricot!

23.03.2020 - 09:21

country flag Carol Rudman wrote:

Please can I convert a pattern using drops Nepal to drops cotton light .

29.12.2018 - 23:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Carol, Cotton Light is from yarn group B, while Nepal il from yarn group C, so they're different. You can try doing a swatch and check if you reach the gauge required. Happy crafting!

30.12.2018 - 11:25

Zorica wrote:

Hello, I have a question. If Gauge is 22 sts x 30 rows, I can't understand how to get 80 cm (size 3/4 years) if I have 212 sts. (212: 2.2 = 96 cm) Please help. Thank you

19.12.2018 - 10:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Zorica, gauge is worked in diagram M.4 - if you have this tension, your work should get the correct measurements. You start with 216 sts but work then ribbing (rib tighten work), then inc on the ridge to 276 sts. You will need more sts for cable than for M.4 in width, so please just check your tension worked with diagram M.4 and keep this tension, your measurements should then be correct. Happy knitting!

19.12.2018 - 13:42

country flag Patricia Robelia wrote:

I love to do cables so I would always love a sweater like this. Also, my favorite is to do children\'s clothing or toys. You said the pattern had no name. When I took my first glance at it the first thing that came to me was Blue Boy. I guess at first look that is what I thought. I do not know if you would like that or not, but that is what struck my eye when I saw it. It is a really nice looking sweater and I will love making it.

06.07.2018 - 03:45

Linda Fourie wrote:

Hello. Thank you so much for your kind assistance. I managed to cast off successfully. Now I'm stumped again! I put all neck stitches onto double sided needles, have decreased 12 front and 12 back stitches, have 100 st. Now can't figure out how to knit neck further with the cast off neck. Please help my grandson says " granny when can I have my jersey". Thank you so much! Kind Regards Linda

29.07.2016 - 11:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Fourie, you are almost done: P 1 round over all sts then continue with rib K2/P2 for 5 cm then cast off sts with K over K and P over P. Happy knitting!

29.07.2016 - 11:51

Linda wrote:

Hi there. Please can you help me. I am knitting DR0PS Children 9-2 sweater for 5-6yrs. My problem is from raglan decreases, neckline. Does not make sense, number of stitches do not correspond. I get mixed up with small sizes and largest sizes. Thank you Linda

26.07.2016 - 12:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Linda, in size 5/6 years, dec 8 sts: every other row a total of 23 times (= 184 sts dec) + every row a total of 5 times (= 40 sts dec) ie a total of 224 sts are dec for raglan. When you have dec a total of 20 times (8 dec for raglan remain), slip the middle 30 sts on front piece on a st holder and bind off for neckline on each side 1x3 sts + 1x2 sts + 1x1 st (= 6 sts on each side of neckline x 2 sides= 12 sts). There were a total of 348 sts before raglan - 224 sts for raglan - 30 sts for neckline - 12 sts for neckline = 82 sts remain. Happy knitting!

26.07.2016 - 13:21

country flag Line Verville wrote:

Bonjour Mais çe que vous m'avez explique s'applique pour les 5 plus grandes moi ce que je ne comprends pas c est les grandeurs avec la fente pour en arriver à 57-70-82. Quand on diminue 2dois 2 m tous les 2rgs soit 8 m en moins il nous disent Les mettre en attente et toi tu sembles dire de les rabattre? J aimerais svp avoir les explications à partir de 6-6-6- diminutionspour le raglan chaque étape avec les quantités restantes pour chaque étapes (avec la fente) merci

25.05.2016 - 20:01

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Verville, si vous tricotez la taille 12/18 mois, il reste 62 m après les dim. du raglan et vous avez en attente les 24 m de l'encolure devant + 4 m de chaque côté (=32 m pour l'encolure), vous relevez 6 m de chaque côté des bordures dos = 62+32+2x6=106 m et diminuez 2 x 12 m (dos et devant) = il reste 82 m. Bon tricot!

26.05.2016 - 09:43

country flag Line Verville wrote:

Bonjour Pour çe modele quand on est rendu à reprendre les mailles ils nous disent de relever 6 mailles de chaque côté de la fente ensuite apres un rg on doit les rabattre? Et comment ils font le calcul pour arriver à 82 m après les diminutiions? ( on ajoute 6+6 on enlève 24 = moins 12 donc 100 moins 12= 88 et non 82 Pour les diminutiions du raglan il faut rabattre ou mettre en attente les mailles pour l encolure ce n' est pas clair Merci et j attends de vos nouvelles

24.05.2016 - 17:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Verville, on commence l'empiècement avec 348 m et on diminue 224 m pour le raglan (= 23 x 8 m tous les 2 rangs + 5 x 8 m tous les rangs) + 42 m au total pour l'encolure (= 30 m du milieu devant en attente + rabattre de chaque côté 1 x 3 m + 1 x 2 m + 1 x 1 m (soit 6 m de chaque côté)). 348-224-42= 82 m. Bon tricot!

24.05.2016 - 17:59